Curl Authority: Damien Carney

Damien Carney
International Artistic Director for Joico

Top techniques for curlies: With frizzy, fine or wiry hair, avoid texturizing shears and razors, which add texture to the hair. The objective is to control texture and curl and to cut the hair to enhance the texture. Although in general I like to cut hair technically, if you’re too technical the overall shape can lack character or emotion. But if hair is cut freehand, it can lose structure and longevity as the hair grows out. Therefore, I like to combine freehand with technical. I use a combination of layering, which is excellent for removing bulk and also adds body and volume to fine or thinning hair. Graduation allows me to cut hair from shorter to longer, to build structure and support within a shape. But hair texture is different with every head and should be analyzed on a case-by-case basis. Keep in mind the wearer and how she wants to be perceived from a hair fashion point of view.

Must-have texture products: I adore K-PAK, as it not only helps to immediately reconstruct hair but also has huge long-term benefits. The hair is reconstructed, and the fabric of the hair improves. I also love Joico’s Moisture Recovery. It delivers moisture, often lacking from naturally textured, curly, frizzy hair. For color-treated hair I adore Color Endure—just amazing! And what’s great is it’s now sulfate-free with no change in effectiveness.

How I acquired my “texpertise”: From early in my career, I’ve had the privilege of working with some of the industry’s icons. I tell clients to live with the curls, love them and don’t try going against nature.

My best advice for working with texture: Always work with the texture, because hair will revert back to what nature wants it to do. However, some textures are uncontrollable and need manipulation with blow drying, which simply creates a prettier, more manageable texture. Really study and listen to the client’s desires and how she maintains her hair. Also study the hair growth pattern, hair texture and overall end-desired result. Keep in mind that most, but not all, curly or textured looks will appear round; use cutting shapes like square, asymmetrical and disconnection to create fresh looks. When you’re drying the hair, choose a product that nourishes and defines the hair texture, but avoid applying too much product. Air-drying or using a diffuser is often best; then you’re not disturbing the natural movement. Your hands are the best tools for this. I often recommend that the client not shampoo as often. I find naturally textured hair is better with natural oils in the hair.

Textured looks for spring: I see longer and shorter areas; the shorter areas create a stronger, more compact head shape, while the longer lengths create a stronger movement/texture pattern so the lengths appear softer. I like working against the natural head shape, creating “anti-head shapes.” If the hair is cut too even and there is no contrast of long, medium and shorter lengths, the shape rounds too much.