Expert Advice

New Direction: The Cut

March 28, 2013 | 2:42 PM
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1. Before cutting, pre section to create a roadmap. 4 panels: one back, two side triangles, one large top section.
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2. Begin in back. Comb down the hair as it is to be worn. Take a section down center back and pull out. Slide down the section to the desired length. Connect visually.
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3. Blend down to nape. Cut the back square. Work inside sections back to the guide to flatten out the back. Bring other sections back and cut to follow the guide.
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4. Comb the hair down and cut along to desired length.
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5. Now go to the longer side section. Direct sections back slightly and razor into the ends to the desired length. Direct sections back until the hair no longer reaches.
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6. Go to the front of the longer section. Direct hairline forward and cut to create a longer face frame.
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7. Move to the shorter side. This time, begin the cutting along the hairline. Direct the hair forward and cut shorter than the opposite side.
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8. Work back in diagonal sections, directing forward and cutting to the guide. The back hair will remain a bit longer as an overhang.
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9. Drop the top section. Begin in the back. Direct sections back and razor to the desired length to overhang the nape and occipital.
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10. Overdirect from the far side, cutting to meet the guide, but still leaving one small section longer as an accent piece.
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11. Direct the fringe area forward. Pull out and elevate slightly. Razor down the sides, blending the fringe in to the previously cut hairline.
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12. Apply styling products to the lengths. Begin with serum, followed by foam. Blow dry over a vent brush. Then fl atiron.
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13. Go in and clean up the cut. Begin at the nape, point cutting into the ends.
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14. Lift up the lengths and point cut into the length.
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15. Clean up the fringe, blending in to the side along the hairline. Define the longer accent piece.
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New Direction: The CutCut: Nick Arrojo
Color: James Edick
Styling: Shawnee Seeley
Photography: Roberto Ligresti
Make-up: David Maderich for MAC Cosmetics
Fashion styling: Beagy Zielinski

In the 1990s, Nick Arrojo hair cuts became synonymous with razor cuts, as his loyalty to the tool has created countless cool, sexy, low maintenance hair styles on TV, on stage at industry trade shows and in his New York City salon. Now, he uses the razor to teach Arrojo cosmetology students the skills that propelled him to international fame in the professional beauty industry.

Here, Arrojo uses the razor to remove bulk and create an asymmetric shape, working closely with master colorist James Edick to “go from uninteresting to really quite modern,” he says. “In a case like this, the consultation with all artists is vital.”

To create an asymmetric color finish, Edick had to know which would be the heavier side before coloring. After discussing with Arrojo, Edick lightened the color with multiple shades of highlights placed on a dark base, which he calls the 2013 Tri Color Block.

“We are pushing clients away from traditional ombre,” Edick says. “Asymmetry is key and all stems from an off-center football-shaped section placed internally.”

For Arrojo, the razor was the perfect tool to accent the color design and create a fresh shape with disconnection. “The goal is to keep each side different and remove bulk while maintaining length. “When using a razor respect the hair. Make sure the blade is sharp,” Arrojo says, who changes his blade every two hair cuts. “It’s also important to make sure hair is very wet to get a better glide.”




New Direction: The Color

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