Expert Advice

Illuminated Color How-to from Wella

March 29, 2013 | 12:46 PM
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1. Mix color for new growth. Wella Illumina: four parts 7/43 + one part 7/31, blended with 20-volume developer.
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2. Apply to the new growth.
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3. While processing, go in a baliage. First apply color to a board. Color used: Magma /47 blended with 20-volume developer.
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4. Apply in mid-sized pieces from off base to ends.
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5. Alternate using freehand method in bricklay method using: Magma equal parts of /39 + /34 + /47, blended with 30-volume developer.
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6. Continue to apply throughout. Process for 20 minutes.
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7. After processing, shampoo and rinse thoroughly. Apply a color gloss from new growth to ends: 1 part 7/43 +1 part 4% developer + 1 part Post Color Service from Wella Care and Styling.
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8. Process 12 minutes then rinse thoroughly.
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9. Begin the cut at the fringe. Direct forward and cut to blend the fringe with the side.
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10. Work back to the crown in large diagonal sections, cutting to the guide.
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Illuminated Color How-to from WellaColor: Alexandra Matiz
Cut: Nicole Obert, assisted by Stephanie Roberts
Photography: Roberto Ligresti
Make-up: David Maderich for MAC Cosmetics
Fashion styling: Rod Novoa

Created to complement Wella Professionals’ lineup of color offerings, the launch of Illumina Color opens the door to countless radiant possibilities. The range of 20 permanent shades, that have been tested by thousands of colorists worldwide, features MicroLight technology, designed to protect the cuticle so it maintains clarity, allowing light to pass through and accentuate the hair’s natural light variations. The result is a smoother, clearer cuticle and hair that appears lit from within.

While model Stephanie arrived with beautiful “to the eye” color, Muze owner and Wella platform artist Alexandra Matiz zoomed in on her Level-6 natural ash at the base and the Level 7/8 golden red along the mid shaft and ends.

“Stephanie could benefi t from dimension and depth,” she says. “She is the perfect candidate for my favorite color design this season: the natural shading of a child with hair that has been highlighted by the sun.”

To achieve this, Matiz used Illumina as a base, placing depth at the new growth. Brighter pieces were placed from midshaft to ends using Wella Magma, a powder lightener that lifts and tones simultaneously. “Illumina is translucent,” she says. “It creates a lot of shine and has a natural reflection. The highlights are bricklayered and varied in size for a fresh placement of color. This creates a more youthful yet luxurious color design.”

Once the color was complete, Anthony Roberts designer Nicole Obert channeled old world movie star Rita Hayworth for the silhouette. “Stephanie’s hair has the perfect length, texture and now color. I’ve been inspired by all the red carpet event coverage and felt this was the perfect time to show this glamorous and sophisticated shape.”


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