Summer Nights: Color
Color: Beth Minardi
Cut: Mark Garrison
Assisted by: Mark Mileti, Raquel Martuscelli, Edina Hasanovic
Photography: Roberto Ligresti
Make-up: Renee Garnes
Nails: Amanda Smith
Fashion styling: Rod Novoa
One of the finest collaborators and mentors in the professional salon industry is Beth Minardi. She has trained and guided some of the best colorists in the beauty world. It was no surprise to MODERN that Minardi brought along styling superstar, colleague and salon owner Mark Garrison to help introduce her Beth Minardi Signature Shades, shown here in print for the first time.
For this session, Minardi requested a dark-haired model to show how to use color to break up density and add dimension. “Bright and summer does not mean blonde,” she says. “Let’s bring on the brightness—a ‘summerier’ way of looking at brown hair. I want to show a brighter way of approaching a warm brunette.”
According to Minardi, it’s the influence of subdued tones that makes it modern. “The way to refine and brighten drab winter hair is to saturate the hair with sunshine, and make it a brighter, lighter sunny side of darker hair.”
Minardi selected model Anastasia because of her “exotic beauty,” she says. “A blonde wouldn’t work against her palate. It wouldn’t happen to her in nature. I am looking for longterm loveliness. This color will look good for 10 weeks.”
When asked how she would retouch this color design, Minardi adds that the “retouch” question is always a favorite at her seminars. “Today’s retouch is different. I rarely use the exact same formula or application for a retouch because I see every retouch as a correction. There is new growth, or the hair color is faded or changed. When we look at a client today, we must look at what we like and don’t like, and what she likes and doesn’t like. Formulas must change. That is what makes us artists.”
1. First isolate a triangular section at the crown. Begin the color below the crown. Apply equal parts Beth Minardi Signature Demi Creme 3BR + 4BC (to make rich, deep chestnut root) with 5-volume developer according to manufacturer’s mixing ratio. Apply this shade in the back. Apply to the base and brush out slightly.
2. Now go in and foil in the back. Apply Beth Minardi Permanent Color 6RC + 7COR (to make a vibrant copper red) with 20-volume developer. Apply from base color to half way down the foil.
3. Place using Minardi’s “Foil to Foil” technique.
4. Continue working up throughout the back. Bring the base shade down and continue with the vibrant copper red.
5. The color placement is “mixed up.” Some color goes from mid shaft, others closer to base. Continue with this irregular pattern up to the crown.
6. Now go to the face frame. Take very fine weaves, almost back to back, in a strong diagonal in the temple. Alternate three formulas.
Formula 1: Beth Minardi Signature Demi Creme 1 oz 6BR with 1 oz 5 volume
Formula 2: Joico’s Vero Light Off-Scalp Lightener, blended with 20 volume, applied from off scalp to ends
Formula 3: Beth Minardi Signature Permanent Creme Color 1½ oz 8RG + ½ oz 4R with 20 volume (to make a soft golden red).
7. Behind the diagonal section go to fine horizontal sections. Alternate lightener and the demi shade of cherry brown in a zig-zag pattern.
8. Work up to the top center parting, continue to alternate in fine sections.
9. Now go to the isolated triangular section at the crown. Apply first to the base and blend to the ends: 4RR Beth Minardi Demi Liquid with 5 volume (to create a cool sparkling ruby red).
10. Draw through to the ends.
11. Process for 25 minutes at room temperature. Shampoo and condition.