Close

Modern Mod

April 25, 2012 | 10:34 AM
Photo 1 of 15
1. Begin the cut along the side. Create a halo parting from ear to ear. Direct the hair forward along the face to create a strong geometric line. Take a vertical section from the highest point at the ear. Cut from long to short up the highest point of the ear.
Photo 2 of 15
2. To create a guideline, pull the ear forward and cut from long to short. Continue to cut the perimeter outline, cutting to the highest point of the ear.
Photo 3 of 15
3. Return to the front. Lift ½-inch diagonal sections out to 45 degrees. Cut to the guide, cutting from short to long.
Photo 4 of 15
4. Return to the back behind the ear and cut long to short. Take a ½-inch diagonal section and cut at 45 degrees, connecting to the highest point. Go back and forth like this up to the parietal ridge.
Photo 5 of 15
5. Sections will fan out to horizontal as you work up the head. Switch to ¼-inch sections, making sure you can see previous guideline at every section. At parietal ridge, take horizontal sections at a 45-degree elevation to create a round beveling.
Photo 6 of 15
6. Blend down in to the back, maintaining elevation. In order to enable graduation, keep elbow raised.
Photo 7 of 15
7. Take ½-inch vertical sections in the nape. Hold at 45 degrees and cut to the guide. Blend up the head to the occipital.
Photo 8 of 15
8. Now blend in to the crown to the highest point. Connect in to the sides horizontally.
Photo 9 of 15
9. Blend forward. Connect to the sides with ½-inch horizontal sections to continue to build a round shape.
Photo 10 of 15
10. Scissor over comb in the nape to create a fluid clean line. Razor the nape for a clean finish.
Photo 11 of 15
11. Return to the front. Direct a concave section from the fringe forward. Freehand cut over the brows, cutting a concave line to leave even distribution between the section and the area you are cutting. Bring down all other sections to this point and cut to the guide.
Photo 12 of 15
12. For maximum volume, blow dry using a wrapping technique. Blow dry in one direction and then reverse.
Photo 13 of 15
Photo 14 of 15
Photo 15 of 15

Modern ModHair: Alison Roberts, Director of Education for Revolver Salon at Ricky’s NYC
Color: Laurie Dimitriou
Photography: Roberto Ligresti
Make-up: David Maderich, mistermakeup.com
Fashion styling: David Widjaja
Fashions: dress and shoes, Yves Saint Laurent; tights, Fogal; earrings, Laruicci

Alison Roberts, Director of Education of Revolver Salon located inside Ricky’s NYC beauty supply, says she is continuously inspired by the legendary Vidal Sassoon. So when model Mika arrived at the casting for this photoshoot, Roberts knew a Mary Quant shape would ­fit the bill.

“I’ve always loved that look,” says Roberts. “In addition to the classic shape, I love this cut because it requires precision and technique. As an educator and stylist, I appreciate the fundamentals of what every great hairdresser should know and do to execute this look.”

Roberts used projection and small sections to create the geometric line with beveling along the parietal ridge. In contrast, the area below the occipital is softer. “I want to keep this area less aggressive,” she says.

Colorist Laurie Dimitriou enhanced the cut by using a draping technique designed to add shine while enhancing the natural shade. “A lighter shade was applied to the strands below the rounds of the head while a dark brown shade was applied to two sections along the top of the head,” she says. “This draping creates interesting shadows and dimension.”

STEPS:

Facebook Comments

More from Hair Cutting

Hair Color Trends
Hair Color Trends

Teal To Big Chop To Tasteful Brunette Bob

Maggie Mulhern | February 8, 2017

When we saw this makeover on Instagram, we had to know more. Hairdresser Nicole Boccio of Cactus Salon and Spa  (@cactussalonsmithtown), Smithtown, New York, says "I had been doing a doubled processed blonde on Kelly Sampson for some time now. She came requesting 'mermaid hair'. She had 2 inches of level 5 roots." Here Boccio shares the details for this makeover.

Hair Cutting
Hair Cutting

MAKEOVER: No Hassle Pixie

Maggie Mulhern | February 2, 2017

"This client had thought about cutting her hair for months. She was leaving out of country to make the world a better place and didn't want the hassle of dealing with long hair throughout her travels." Dani Emerson (@hairdodanigirl) shares details for the makeover.

Hair Color Trends
Hair Color Trends

COLOR CORRECTION: She Let Me "Play" With Her Hair

Maggie Mulhern | January 31, 2017

Jessica Love (@jessicaa_lovee) of The Woodlands, Texas, revealed her artistic abilities through this color correction by creating an astonishing masterpiece. Love actually approached this client outside of the salon stating that she had a vision. "I got inspired and couldn't help myself but to ask if she'd come in and let me play with her hair," says Love. "We clicked instantly and booked an appointment." Here's the how-to.

Hair Color
Hair Color

MAKEOVER: Too Subtle To Too Fab

Maggie Mulhern | January 26, 2017

Kelsey Brogan (@kjb_hair), a Redken Color certified artist from Mequon, Wisconsin, says she has a "passion for making people blonde!!" Here she had the opportunity to put that passion to the test. "This client came in with previously subtle highlights feeling very dull and wanted a complete makeover." Brogan first cut off about 6 inches and then got busy with color. Here she shares the how-to

Hair Cutting Andrew Carruthers at the Sam Villa booth in the Gallerie at Redken Symposium 2017.
Hair Cutting

HOW-TO: The Perfect Fringe Trim

Maggie Mulhern | January 18, 2017

Andrew Carruthers, Director of Education, was at the Redken Symposium 2017 to launch his "baby", the new Artist Series Shear, designed with new and exciting technology to help any stylist perfect a cut. We put him (and the shears) to the test by asking him to trim an overgrown fringe.

Hair Color Trends
Hair Color Trends

MAKEOVER: Going Bright and Icy With Lots Of Contrast

Maggie Mulhern | January 6, 2017

Amy McManus (@Camouflageandbalayage), owner of Trinity Salon in Fitchburg Mass. says "My guest contacted me after seeing my work on Instagram. She drove an hour to see me because she loved my blondes on my page." This client was previously highlighted, but she never felt light enough. "She wanted a lot of bright icy pieces and loved a lot of contrast. After out consultation, we decided to keep her natural base color and build off of that for the blend." Here's the how to.

Load More