Modern Mod

April 25, 2012 | 10:34 AM
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1. Begin the cut along the side. Create a halo parting from ear to ear. Direct the hair forward along the face to create a strong geometric line. Take a vertical section from the highest point at the ear. Cut from long to short up the highest point of the ear.
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2. To create a guideline, pull the ear forward and cut from long to short. Continue to cut the perimeter outline, cutting to the highest point of the ear.
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3. Return to the front. Lift ½-inch diagonal sections out to 45 degrees. Cut to the guide, cutting from short to long.
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4. Return to the back behind the ear and cut long to short. Take a ½-inch diagonal section and cut at 45 degrees, connecting to the highest point. Go back and forth like this up to the parietal ridge.
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5. Sections will fan out to horizontal as you work up the head. Switch to ¼-inch sections, making sure you can see previous guideline at every section. At parietal ridge, take horizontal sections at a 45-degree elevation to create a round beveling.
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6. Blend down in to the back, maintaining elevation. In order to enable graduation, keep elbow raised.
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7. Take ½-inch vertical sections in the nape. Hold at 45 degrees and cut to the guide. Blend up the head to the occipital.
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8. Now blend in to the crown to the highest point. Connect in to the sides horizontally.
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9. Blend forward. Connect to the sides with ½-inch horizontal sections to continue to build a round shape.
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10. Scissor over comb in the nape to create a fluid clean line. Razor the nape for a clean finish.
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11. Return to the front. Direct a concave section from the fringe forward. Freehand cut over the brows, cutting a concave line to leave even distribution between the section and the area you are cutting. Bring down all other sections to this point and cut to the guide.
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12. For maximum volume, blow dry using a wrapping technique. Blow dry in one direction and then reverse.
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Modern ModHair: Alison Roberts, Director of Education for Revolver Salon at Ricky’s NYC
Color: Laurie Dimitriou
Photography: Roberto Ligresti
Make-up: David Maderich,
Fashion styling: David Widjaja
Fashions: dress and shoes, Yves Saint Laurent; tights, Fogal; earrings, Laruicci

Alison Roberts, Director of Education of Revolver Salon located inside Ricky’s NYC beauty supply, says she is continuously inspired by the legendary Vidal Sassoon. So when model Mika arrived at the casting for this photoshoot, Roberts knew a Mary Quant shape would ­fit the bill.

“I’ve always loved that look,” says Roberts. “In addition to the classic shape, I love this cut because it requires precision and technique. As an educator and stylist, I appreciate the fundamentals of what every great hairdresser should know and do to execute this look.”

Roberts used projection and small sections to create the geometric line with beveling along the parietal ridge. In contrast, the area below the occipital is softer. “I want to keep this area less aggressive,” she says.

Colorist Laurie Dimitriou enhanced the cut by using a draping technique designed to add shine while enhancing the natural shade. “A lighter shade was applied to the strands below the rounds of the head while a dark brown shade was applied to two sections along the top of the head,” she says. “This draping creates interesting shadows and dimension.”


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