How-to: Red Cross

September 27, 2012 | 1:46 PM
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1. Section hair as shown. Isolate a veil along the part line. This shape is similar to a football: a pointed oval, on the opposite side to base of the parietal. Isolate a 1-inch strip along one side of the perimeter of the football section.
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2. Begin the color in the back at the ½-inch closest to the base in vertical sections using equal parts Chromatics 3VV and 5VV with 10-volume developer.
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3. Reformulate with 20-volume developer for the lengths. Cover with foil.
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4. Now go to isolated sections along the perimeter of the football section. At root, apply 7C with 30-volume developer from scalp to ends. Cover with foil.
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5. Now go in to the football section. Apply 6RR with 20-volume developer at base. Switch to 30-volume developer and apply to the ends. Process 35 minutes at room temperature. Shampoo and condition.
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6. Begin the cut in the back. Take a diagonal section and pull out slightly. Razor away the ends. Blend up to the top, cutting to the guide.
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7. Isolate a section at the crown. Pull out the side section vertically. V snip the ends to the desired length. Blend back in vertical sections, directing slightly forward. Cut to the guide.
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8. Now go internally. Pull out vertical sections. Go through snipping away using the “Polka Dot” technique—three different small areas are snipped at different points throughout the vertical section. Blend throughout the lengths, avoiding the hairline.
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9. Now go into the isolated circle for the “Ripple Layer” technique. This will stay long. Lift up a fairly large section and twist slightly. Slide cut up to the ends from mid-point.
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10. Now subdivide, like the rings of a tree. Take an inner circle. This one will go one inch shorter. Lift up and twist. Slide cut away the last inch.
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11. Now go inside this circle. Lift up, twist and slide cut the last ½ inch toward the ends.
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12. Return to the sides. Lift out and direct forward. Slide cut to the lengths, cutting to blend.
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13. Direct fringe forward and shape.
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14. Once dry, go in and texturize. Lift out and cut away at the ends where needed.
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While Redken and Pureology have been “sisters” for years, the lines have never been featured together in any publication. In this MODERN exclusive, view the results of the first-ever collaboration of the two powerhouses.

Tapped for shape was Pureology’s Color Ambassador Ruth Roche, while color formulation and design was handled by Redken Artist and Chromatics Artistic Advisor Patrick Fitzwater.

“We are showcasing reds because we are putting the ‘red back in Redken,’” says Fitzwater. “Redken has created a new Rubilane technology which started the whole ‘red-alution’,” he says. “The R5 technology allows us to get longer-lasting, more vibrant reds. So many color lines are either blue or orange based. With this, we can now offer the whole palette.” According to Fitzwater, “This non ammonia, shine producing, fortifying color is great because it offers a healthier approach to hair color. My clients are more comfortable with the results as well as the luxurious experience. It is a luxury line of color and it’s so exciting to combine it with Pureology, a luxury line of hair care.”

THE LOOK: “On model Tetianna, we went for a Level-4 violet. The ‘Veil,’ the top football-shaped section, will be lighter and brighter. The rest of the hair will be a darker deep violet,” Fitzwater says. “The model’s old highlights will come in handy to create the desired finished result: the color in the flame after a match is lit.” For shape, Roche added asymmetry and several texture techniques to modernize her look. “This is a fun way to update a shorter look without taking a client into something very short.”

Rich Reds


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