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HOW-TO: Create a Blended Ombre out of a Brassy & Patchy Mess

Lauren Salapatek | October 20, 2014 | 10:57 AM

How do you fix a brassy and patchy ombre? Colorist Danica Szczerba at Volume Beauty Bar tried this technique.

“My guest came into the salon requesting to ‘fix’ her ombre that had been done by her previous stylist. When she arrived, it was easy to tell why she was unsatisfied with her color. Instead of a blended ombre, her hair was brassy and patchy. Her new growth was a natural level 5 and her midstrands had all been lifted. Leaving a level 9 midstrand and her ends a level 7 in some places and 6 in others,” says Szczerba.

THE PROCESS:

Color used: Davines

New Growth formula for level 5:
Davines A New Color 6.1 (60g) + A New Color Cream (60g) + A New Color 10 volume

Midstrand formula for lvl 9:
Davines A New Color 8.72 (20g) + A New Color 7.1(20g) + A New Color Cream + A New Color 10 volume

Ends Formula for level 7/6:
Davines Bleaching Paste (100g) + 20 vol (150g)

“My client had a lot of hair and was expecting a big change, so I decided to do the color melting technique for the best effect. To begin, I applied the 'New Growth formula' for better control on my color. From there, starting at the nape, I zigzag weaved vertically each section. On each foil I staggered the three formulas for a blended and more subtle effect. Once the whole head was covered in foils, I let the lightener process for 25-40 minutes then rinsed when it was at a level 9/10. When all the color was shampooed out, I applied Redken toner 9N (150g) + Processing Solution (150g). I allowed the toner to process for 10 minutes before rinsing. The end result was a blended and bright ombre exceeding the client’s expectations,” says Szczerba.

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