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HOW-TO: Golden, Sunkissed Babylights on Level 6-7 Hair

Lauren Salapatek | December 1, 2014 | 1:57 AM

MODERN recently interviewed Rona O’Connor, Goldwell’s Celebrity Colorist about babylights application, maintenance and more. Here, O'Connor provides us with her formulas and process for achieving these beautiful babylights on level 6-7 natural virgin hair. "This technique allows color control using two shades in foils and painting/balayage of a third," she says. "I used Goldwell color for this particular look."

THE FORMULAS:

FORMULA 1: 15 mls Goldwell Topchic Hair Color Blonding Cream Ash, 5 mls 8gb, mix with equal parts 30 volume.

FORMULA 2: Goldwell SilkLift High Performance Lightener, 10 volume developer. (Longer working time)

FORMULA 3: Oxyplatine with 20 volume. (Faster acting being the last color applied.)

THE TECHNIQUE:

STEP 1: Section the hair in a Mohawk pattern on the crown. Starting at the back of the head, 1" above the occipital finishing at the hairline, apply Formula 1. Paint slices or a very fine weave pattern using wide foils, starting 1-1/2" away from the root.

STEP 2: Apply Formula 2. Place a second foil back-to-back, in the same very fine slices or weave pattern, but 2" away from the root. (This softens the babylights at the root and gives a graduated result.)

STEP 3: Continue this pattern across the crown in 3/4"-1" sections apart until the last 2" at the front of the hairline. 

STEP 4: Place foils in the same fine method back-to-back but closer to the scalp. 

STEP 5: Finish by applying the last two foils with Silk Lift separated by 1/4 -1/2".

STEP 6: Add two Silk Lift foils on the hairline on each side of the head, same pattern as the top front. Work quickly, especially with thicker hair.

STEP 7: To finish the look, balayage random 1/2" ribbons on the mid lengths through the ends vertically with Formula 3. Apply approximately 1-2" apart around the entire head, including the framing of the face.

Tip: If you need more time, balayage the back first. This allows for rinsing your first section if needed. 

STEP 8: Continue foiling the crown. Balayage the top midlengths throughout the ends as described.

STEP 9: Total processing time in foils is 25-40 minutes. Process the balayaged tips 10-20 minutes. Check periodically, hair lift can vary. The Silk Lift should not be lighter than the Golden Ivory. Add toner if a softer, cooler result is requested.

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