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4 Steps to Cleaning Up a Difficult Neckline (+Video!)

Lauren Quick | March 4, 2015 | 2:57 PM

Unusual growth patterns in hair aren't all that uncommon in both men and women; but when disproportionately more men than women go for tight, precise hairstyles, these growth patterns have a much bigger effect on the overall look.

"Erratic growth patterns at the neckline can be intimidating," says Andrew Carruthers, director of education for Sam Villa. "Do you take the hairline up high and cut away the chaos, or do you let it grow to cover the problem?"

Carruthers suggests taking a soft approach and using carefully considered tools to manage growth and create a natural-looking groomed hairline.

4 Steps to Trimming an Unusual Hairline

  1. Clean up the neckline. Carruthers uses a Sam Villa Razor with straight blade to remove neck hair immediately below the edges of the hairline. "A razor gets closer to the skin than a clipper can, and it leaves a softer edge," Carruthers says. "Be sure the blade is new so it will not irritate skin on the neck; if a guest is sensitive, dab conditioner on their neck for extra protection."
  2. Remove weight and manage density. Chip away at hair edges using the Sam Villa Signature Series InvisiBlend Shear; be aware of light and shadows in the area. "The InvisiBlend Shear will not leave any lines in the hair as the blunt blade is highly polished and does not cut the hair," Carruthers says. "The cutting blade has 23 teeth with very sharp, convex edges, which allows slide-out in any direction with zero drag or pull. When both blades of the shear are closed, the hair is pushed down onto the blunt blade with the teeth--this creates soft, arched cutting lines rather than hard, straight lines."
  3. Address sides of the neckline and create balance through light and shadowed areas. Move on to the sides and lightly remove density in areas that appear heavy, and take note of light and shadows so you don't create too much separation. "Keep the density as consistent as possible by moving slowly and paying attention to the other areas already cut," Carruthers says. "To address the shadows (the denser areas), cut into those areas with the InvisiBlend Shear as it will extract weight without leaving lines, offering seamless blending that delivers natural-looking results."
  4. Don't neglect maintenance. Assess how soon the client's hairline will look chaotic again, and pre-book the next appointment. It doesn't have to be for a whole haircut; you can do a quick neck trim between appointments to keep things clean.

"We want to manage these challenging necklines with the right tools to result in a very natural and visibly pleasing look--no squared or rounded off shapes," Carruthers says. "Using a lighter hand when cutting and attention to detail will definitely ensure the natural look."

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