TRANSFORMATION: Overcast Gray

Joseph Cuozzo (@Cuozzostudioforhair) a master colorist and owner of the Cuozzo Studio For Hair, Oranjestad Aruba, Madison, NJ, says  "The most requested color trend this season in our Aruba salon has been the gray silver trend. Most colorists have been doing it for awhile now but this spring it really seems to have hit the mainstream."

Cuozzo calls the shade in this story "Overcast Gray" which he prefers to "Granny Gray" which he feels is misleading. "I say misleading because I have had elderly clients come in and ask me to color their hair gray like their re-growth," says Cuozzo. "When I ask why they say because it's the trend so now I don't have to keep coloring my hair! I had to explain that the trend is something a little different and that and maybe they should consider sticking with the touch up!"

Cuozzo and team recently made the decision to only do this color on a level 7 or above. "It is very time consuming and we always feel like the results are lacking when we do it on darker clients. The cost is also an issue for most dark haired clients so we just test strand them to show them the process. That usually helps them understand that their hair will not look like the picture they brought in of a natural level 8 model who was brought to gray. I know it can be done on darker level but we've decided that this works best for us. We use a very gentle lightener and back that up with Olaplex so yes, it can be done on a darker level but we've decided that this works best for us and the client."

Here Cuozzo shares the HOW TO:

Step 1: Pre lighten with a fine slice full foil (almost back to back) using Wella Blondor Cream Lightener, blended with Olaplex Bond Multiplier. Process to desired lift and then do a light shampoo.

Step 2: Tone the new growth with Illumina 7/81 add a half inch 0/11 KP Special Mix with 1.9, Lightly feather into the midshaft.

Step 3: Tone the mid shaft with CT 8/81 add a half inch of 0/11 KP Special Mix and triple 1.9.

Step 4: Continue to the ends, but add a bit more 1.9.

Step 5: Gently melt these shades together with with a wide tooth comb in a lifting manner as opposed to the way you would normally pull through for color balancing.

Step 6: Process for 20 minutes, no heat. Rinse and condition then smile!

For the finished look, Cuozzo colored the client's clip in extensions and placed them back in the hair.