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DRAMATIC TRANSFORMATION: Nailing the Inspiration Photo

Maggie Mulhern | June 14, 2015 | 6:37 AM
Inspiration photo.
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Katlin Starks (@hairbykatlin), a mentor stylist for Regis Salon in Albuquerque, NM, had an opportunity with a first time guest who had not been happy with her hair for a while.

"She had been left with a burned scalp in the past, warm toned blonde and porous hair," Starks says. "She was looking to brighten it up, take out the warm band at her roots, remove the gold/warm tones and even out the color underneath. Oh, and maintain the integrity of her hair. She showed me her inspirational photo, the lovely @babsbeauty_ from Instagram. She loved her platinum icy blonde with the medium brown flowing underneath."

Starks got busy, trying to recreate something close to the inspirational photo, given the current state of the guests hair:

-Natural level 5 at root
-Color underneath level 5 with levels 8-10 warm and icy highlights
-Blotchy underneath from levels 5-9
-Blonde on top was a level 10 gold with level 8-9 band

Formula A- Matrix ColorSync 6WN with 10 vol developer
Formula B- Matrix V-Light 10 vol developer
Formula C- Matrix V-Light 35 Vol developer
Formula D- Matrix V-Light 40 Vol developer
Formula E- Matrix V-Light 5 Vol developer
Formula F- Matrix V-Light 30 Vol developer

STEP 1: Apply Formula A from her occipital bone down for the color underneath in a zig-zag parting "for a nice blend between the blonde and brown."

STEP 2: To address the splotchy colors underneath that were not colored with Formula A, go through with Formula B in back to back foils, micro weave and slices, to break up all the unwanted color. "I did this because I knew just going through with lightener would still leave it very uneven since her levels ranged from 5-9, I knew with foils I would have more control of how she lifted."

STEP 3: Once balanaced, time for the blonde retouch. Apply Formula C for the 2 back sections and Formula D for the 2 front sections. "Knowing her new growth closest to her scalp will lift and process quickly, I left lightener 1/2 inch away from her scalp, so I would not create another band."

STEP 4: Once the sections were completed, go back with Formula D, starting at the first section, reapplying and this time pulling it 1/8 of an inch from scalp, ("knowing my lightener will expand as it processes.") While reapplying Formula D to the sections, apply Formula E to the gold band.

STEP 5: Process under a steamer for 15 minutes, checking every 5-7 minutes. "Once she was almost finished, I checked her foils. The last 5-6 inches of dark had only lifted to about a level 7 and the rest was a level 10." Bring to the bowl, while still sitting up, and gently remove foils. Apply Formula F to the ends of the foiled sections and let them sit in the open for 5-7 more minutes, still keeping an eye on the root and scalp area.

STEP 6: Once at a level 10 at roots and foiled areas, rinse with cool water and shampoo with Regis DesignLine Cashmere Fortifying shampoo and conditioner. Apply a Malibu C treatment to the hair and process with heat for 10 minutes. Rinse with cool water and applied the Malibu C Repair Mask to the hair. Process with heat for 15 minutes and then rinse with cool water.

STEP 7: Tone roots first with Matrix ColorSync 1 1/2oz 10P + 1 1/2oz 10V + 1/2oz 10N + 1/2oz 10A. Process on roots for 6 minutes and then pull through to ends, massaging through until desired color is achieved. Rinse with cool water, shampoo, condition, and style.

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