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TRANSFORMATION: Going For Effortless Beauty

Maggie Mulhern | August 29, 2015 | 12:08 PM
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Internal texture
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Traditional balayage highlights
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An extra pop of color near the face
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A touch of root shadow
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Margot was ready for a fresh look that was both professional and fashionable. She connected with Stephen Thevenot (@steventhev) for a new shape and Alissa Frum (@eligha, #alissafrumhair) for color, both of the Eva Scrivo Salon in NYC. The goal was to design a gentle but impactful makeover.

CUT:

For cut and style, Thevenot decided to go classic with a touch of today. "It was my first time working with her," says Thevenot. "Her hair was long and basic which she wore in a messy bun on a daily basis. She seemed confident and was ready for something more modern." According to Thevenot, Margot said she was fascinated by and drawn to the effortless beauty of French girls. "But we wanted to keep it a drop longer than the traditional tossled bob for a bit more edge. This shape is super wearable." The hair was cut entirely with a straight blade.

Step 1: Remove length with a straight blade, leaving the back slightly shorter with a front corner ending at her clavicle.

Step 2:  Remove weight with slices in the nape. "Clients tend to have bulk in the nape and I wanted the hair to sit in a bit more."

Step 3: Go in and create an internal square layer throughout from temple to temple.

Step 4: Chisel in a few strategic long layers from the crown to create height and movement without looking like a traditional layer.

Step 5: Create a few pieces in the face frame while maintaining the front corner. (This finished look was created with a beach spray at the root and midshaft and rough hand dry with a bit of twisting around the face.)

COLOR:

Alissa Frum decided to follow the cut for the perfect color. "She needed a full head of highlights since so much of her blonde was lost in the cut and her parting had been changed," says Frum. "Because she had an edgier cut, I wanted to accent the layers and the pieces in the front for a more modern finish." Frum adds that with shorter hair on a young client it's nice to keep depth at the root to not only allow the blonde to pop but to maintain the effortless beauty, as desired.

Step 1: Using a balayage technique, apply Goldwell Silk Lift with 30 volume througout the hair. Paint with very fine sections for extra blonde highlights.

Step 2: Process to pale blonde and then rinse.

Step 3: Apply a root glaze of a cool toned level 9. "I wanted to keep the depth of her natural color but soften the start of the highlights."

Step 4: Dry the ends slightly.  Pick up the previously highlighted hair and paint thick sections on the ends and around the hairline. Process for  just 5 minutes for an extra pop and brightness without damaging the hair.

Step 5: Shampoo and seal with Shu Uemura Color Lust Cool Blonde.

all photos by Nick Uccan

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