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Formula How-To: Drizzled with Irish Cream

Elizabeth Jakaitis | September 9, 2015 | 9:09 AM
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Diagram A and B
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Diagram C and D
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Master Colorist and Unicorn Tribe member Sadie Gray (@sadiejcre8s) had a client come in with 1/2-inch grown out level 6 roots and chunky highlights from her previous style. The client expressed an interest in trying out balayage, but rather than jumping right in, Gray decided to complete this transformation gradually over two visits so that she could stretch out her roots and give her the feeling of having darker tones in her hair.

“I could have done all of these steps in one day, but her chunky highlights were so close to the root that I wanted that to grow out more to ensure a softer grow out and transition,” said Gray.

VISIT 1:

Formula: Fanola 7.13 and 7.0 with 20vol. 1:1.5 ratio.

1. Use the Redken Blur Brush to blend it down. Alternate, bringing every other section all the way through the ends and separate each section with papers.

2. Processe for 30 minutes and then rinse.

3. Shampoo with Fanola Nutri-Care and condition with Nutri-Care Conditioner.

VISIT 2:

Formula: Fanola 12.2 with 40vol. In sections with previous blonde that didn’t need 40vol, Gray used Fanola 12.2 but with 20vol, simply for toning. (Otherwise no toner needed). 1:1.5 ratio.

1. Section hair into 4 quarters and, starting with the front side that her hair falls towards, create a diagonal back, sectioning and with half inch subpartings.

2. Use a balayage pattern that creates face-framing highlights which are graduated down as they move back.  (See diagrams A and B).

3. At the back, alternate between a V (diagonal) to then straight across (horizontal). Balyage in a V pattern, being sure to saturate the mids and ends really well.  (See Diagram C and D).

4. Separate each section with papers and process for 40 minutes at room temperature.

5. Rinse with Fanola NutriCare Shampoo and Conditioner.

6. Style with Living Proof products and create waves with BioIonic StyleWinder. Run fingers through the waves.

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