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Rock-n-Radiant

Lauren Salapatek | October 1, 2015 | 8:22 AM
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A geode-inspired haircolor application by Rusk’s Gerard Caruso creates a crystal shimmer finish—solid and uniform on the surface with a brilliant interior.

The professional salon and spa audience is predictably clever, interesting and quite visual. When MODERN asks for a guide for inspiration, we are regularly impressed with what colorists, in particular, share.

This MODERN photo session was no different. We asked Rusk Global Artistic Director Gerard Caruso for his inspiration and he stunned us. “Think of a rock,” he says. “The exterior is frequently dull, but once you open it up, it is can be filled with exciting colors. I want to do something like that.”

The transformation began with a dry cut to create a modern, shagged lob. “Dry cutting allows me to visualize the hair shape in the process of cut-ting,” Caruso says. “For a creative mind it allows guidance for color placement.” The hair was first flatironed in small sections to offer controlled movement. Once the shape was established, the hair was prelifted from mid-shaft to ends, feathered to prevent any dramatic line of demarcation.

Caruso then prepared three shades in jewel tones, which he layered in foils in the pre-lightened areas. "The color is staggered to create shadows. It will pop in different lights, just like the inside of a rock. I love this for fall."

BRILLIANT INTERIOR:

  1. Flatiron the hair to smooth the cuticle for more movement and visibility when cutting. Take small sections, elevate slightly and “shimmy” to the end with a one-inch flatiron.
  2. Take a crescent-shape section from the temple to just below the occipital, following the curvature of the head. Comb down the hair, directing slightly forward.
  3. Comb from underneath, elevate, cut to desired length.
  4. Continue to work with the shape of the head. Hold the hair straight out and cut to behind the ear. Repeat on the opposite side.
  5. Once both sides are completed, connect through the back.
  6. Now take a texturizing blade and return to the ends cutting to break up all solid lines. Blend throughout.
  7. Begin the color by pre-lifting. Take ¼-inch horizontal sections and place on foil. Apply Rusk Deepshine White Lightener with 30-volume developer from mid section to the ends.
  8. Feather the bleach up slightly to prevent a strong line of demarcation. Continue pre-lifting throughout the hair above the rounds of the head. Lift to level 8.
  9. Prepare three shades in separate bowls. Formulas: Deepshine Direct Purple, Yellow and Green.
  10. Begin with the application of the purple. Apply along the lowest pre-lifted area in foil. Apply from the lightened area to the ends. Fold the foil.
  11. On the next level apply the yellow to the pre-lifted area.
  12. In the next foil in the next layer apply green in the same manner.
  13. Stagger these shades in layers throughout to create a color shadow effect. Process 25 minutes. Rinse and shampoo.

PRODUCTS AND TOOLS:

Colors: Rusk Deepshine White Lightener, Deepshine Shine Enhancing Crème Developer, Deepshine Direct Purple, Deepshine Direct Yellow, Deepshine Direct Green
Shears: Rusk VG-10 Delta Blade 5.0" Rusk VG-10 Beta Blade
Flatiron: BabylissPro Nano Titanium
Styling aids: Heatshift Re-styling Crème, Anit Frizz Hairspray, Elixer Mist Thermal Shine Mist, all Rusk Styling Collection
Fashions: BCBG; Vera Wang

Hair: Gerard Caruso for Rusk
Assisted by: Troy Munsey
Photography: Roberto Ligresti
Makeup: David Maderich for Graftobian Fashion styling: Rod Novoa

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