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How-to: Styling a Bob Two Ways

Lauren Quick | November 21, 2016 | 8:11 AM
Hair: Sam Villa ArTeam //Makeup: Keri Hatfield //Fashion styling: Carmen Nydegger
Photo By Shalem Kitter

For clients not used to shorter hair, a big chop might be intimidating because of the misconception that it doesn't have as much versatility in styling.

Sam Villa Director of Education Andrew Carruthers points out it's your job as the stylist to both create a cut that isn't limited to one style and then to show the client how to manipulate the hair into different identities.

"When shapes are built with simplicity, it allows guests to create unique idientities with dramatic shifts in styling," Carruthers says. "The incredible value created for salon guests by showing them all the possibilities sends retention through the roof."

First, the cut

STEP 1: Part hair by dividing the back and sides from the top right at the bottom edge of the verticle transition.

STEP 2: Start in center back, take a vertical section, elevate to about 45 degrees and softly razor a long, graduated cutting line with the Same villa Signature Series Razor equipped with a straight blade.

STEP 3: Continue around the head in vertical sections. Overdirect sections back to the previous section to allow length toward the front.

STEP 4: Once complete, unclip the top and thoroughly combe into the natural parting.

STEP 5: Again starting in center-back, take about a 2-inch wide horizontal section, slicing a bit of the underneath for a guide, elevate the section a bit above 45 degrees and softly razor the underneath guide. 

STEP 6: Continue moving around each side of the head toward the front.

STEP 7: After blow-drying, use the Sam Villa Signature Series Invisiblend shear to remove excess weight from the interior to allow flexibility in styling.

Style 1: Sleek + chic

STEP 1: Prep damp hair with Redken One United throughout, then layer a few drops of Redken Glow Dry through midlengths and ends.

STEP 2: Begin wrap-drying with Sam Villa Artist Series Polishing Paddle for shine and smoothness.

STEP 3: At about 75% dry, switch to Sam Villa Signature Series Styling Brush. Drape hair into the brush and give a slight turn as the brush moves through midlengths and ends to create a soft bevel to tuck in flyaways.

STEP 4: Once hair is completely dry, section from high point to recession on both sides. Mist entire section with Redken Iron Shape 11 and split section into two diagonal sections, going opposite direction the hair will fall.

STEP 5: Gently bevel the midshaft of the hair in the direction the hair will fall with the Sam Villa Signature Series Sleekr Professional Straightening Iron.

STEP 6: Tuck opposite side behind the ear and finish with a light spray of Redken Diamond Oil Shatterproof shine.

Style 2: Tousled texture

STEP 1: Mist Redken Iron Shape 11 throughout dry hair and comb through for even distribution.

STEP 2: Part the hair by dividing the back and sides from the top right at the bottom edge of the vertical transition.

STEP 3: Throuhgout the back an dsides, use horizontal sections and establish a figure-6 curling-iron set with a 1-inch marcel curling iron. At the bottom of the head, set more off-base and toward the top, set more on-base. 

STEP 4: Pin each section to cool.

STEP 5: Unclip the top. Starting at the crown, take alternating diagonal sections and establish a figure-6 curling iron set with a 1.5-inch marcel curling iron. Set everything on-base to cool for maximum volume. 

STEP 6: Once everything has cooled, unpin and rake through with fingers to separate curls.

STEP 7: Flip part to the opposite side it was cut from and define inndividual curls with Redken Fashion Work 12. 

Credits

Hair: Sam Villa ArTeam

Makeup: Keri Hatfield

Photography: Shalem Kitter

Fashion styling: Carmen Nydegger

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