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Color Correction: Grown Out To Modern Sombre

Maggie Mulhern | January 14, 2017 | 11:18 AM

Master Colorist at Trio Salon Chicago, Educator and North American Goldwell Artistic Team member Daniel Rubin (@djrcolor)  says it's been almost three years since this client has been to a colorist. "She is a new client to me and wanted a full head of painted hightlights."  Rubin, the gold medalist in the Partner Category of Color Zoom 2016, was up for the opportunity to add some fresh color to this client with a natural level 6N with pre-existing level 8 on very tip of ends.

Here Rubin shares the details, using all Goldwell color:

Step 1:  Apply a flash application to new blonde (Flash is an at basin application on shampoo towel dried hair.) Apply to entire hair roots to ends. Used here: Colorance Core (to match the previously lightened ends). Process for 5 minutes. Shampoo and dry the hair.

Step 2: Subdivide hair into 3 clipped sections: from crown to occipital and down the middle part to recession. Starting in front work horizontally and use an alternating v pattern to freeform hand paint  (balayage) using Silk Lift Strong 6%. Do this to both sides and back. When approaching clipped sections alternate using a micro-weave on diagonal sections working back to front. Backcomb slightly each section and foil with Silk Lift Strong 6% alternating Topchic 10v 12%.

Step 3: Process for 30 minutes and shampoo.

Step 4: Overlay using Colorance Core: 18mls 10bg+2mls6bp. Process 10-15 minutes and then rinse and condition.

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