In decades past, specialized male salons or barbershops were the only place for men to receive hairdressing services with masculine finishes, say the educators for Pivot Point International. Now, most salons cater to both women and men, requiring all hairdressers to be able to provide salon services to the male clientele.
And, there are major perks with this bunch: Male clients are known to be the most loyal, having a much higher frequency of visit, male clients are also more than likely to take your retail recommendations, and, once they’ve found their stylist, they are incredibly faithful.
Pivot Point’s Meta:Men, Classics Session I, is designed to expand or perfect stylists’ range of techniques geared toward the male client—with a goal of winning new clients and gaining the unending loyalty of current ones.
After introductions, Allison Barker and Jason Russell, field educators, begin the workshop by establishing the characteristics that make a classic male style. In general, men’s styling requires less volume—however, if volume needs to be created, it needs to be strategically placed to support a lean, square silhouette instead of softening. Classic male styles are overall square silhouettes, lean, often tapered, exteriors, tight shapes along the crest, angular shapes in the interior, exposed and defined hairlines and sideburns, and little to no volume.
Students learn that while the desired shape of a male hair style resembles a rectangle, the actual head shape of the client is rounded. The cut must compensate by incorporating longer and shorter shapes in the appropriate areas.
Students are given a male mannequin with long, unkempt hair—before cutting begins, educators review the “7 Sculpting Procedures”: Sectioning; head position (upright, forward, tilted); partings(horizontal, vertical, diagonal); distribution (natural fall, perpendicular, shifted); projection(0-, 45-, 90-degrees); finger/shear position (parallel, non-parallel); and design line (mobile, stationary).
“Holding your shears in an ergonomically correct way will determine if you’re going to be in the industry for four years or 40 years,” educator Barker says.
Beginning with the “Chris” finish, students now begin cutting—following a video demonstration of the cut, the educator walks students through a hands-on step-by-step. As students progress to the last cut of the day, “Michael,” educators continue to provide insight into the male client and how to achieve the best results.
“Horizontal partings add weight, so when cross checking a men’s hair cut, don’t cut too much or it will add weight,” educator Russell says.
“If needed, go back in vertically or notch horizontally if your lengths are inconsistent.”
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