before-katharine

MODERN's own Katharine Cook has had the same look for years. Granted, it's a beautiful look, but she was ready for a change. She turned to Chicago's Genacelli Salon owner Joseph Cartagena, president of Cosmetologists Chicago, for the big change.

Helping Cartagena for the day was Erica Everson, who works with Genacelli at his neighboring salon, East Studio.

"Katharine came in with a Level 7 color naturally at the base--she was close to a 6, but definitely a 7," Cartagena says. "She was between a 7/8 on her ends with highlights and lowlights. The goal really is to create a red that doesn't  'scream,' and has a natural finish with lots of variation."

Using Logics Imprints color, Cartagena began with Level 8 Gold and Orange in demipermanent.

"The cut itself is very simple," he says. "She had quite a bit of layering on the bottom, but not enough in the interior. Using the Alternating Layering technique, we're going to be taking vertical panels, releasing the tension, and cutting one section from short to long, and the next section from long to short. The result is an organic-looking movement that's really beautiful."

 

Logics Imprints Color How to: Blonde to Red A Makeover Story

Step 1: Clarify the hair two times using Redken’s Cleansing Cream. Before drying, apply Shu Uemura’s Essence Absolue Nourishing Oil-In-Cream leave-in to help even out the hair’s porosity so the color processes evenly.

Logics Imprints Color How to: Blonde to Red A Makeover Story

Step 2: Using a bottle, apply Formula 1 to Zone 1 (base to two-inches down the shaft). Formula 1: Equal parts Logics Imprints 8RO Full + 8G Shear with 10-volume developer.

Logics Imprints Color How to: Blonde to Red A Makeover Story

Step 3: Apply Formula 2 to Zone 2 and 3, marrying Zone 1 and 2 together using your finger. Formula 2: 2 parts 8G Shear + 1 part 8RO Full with 10-volume developer.

Logics Imprints Color How to: Blonde to Red A Makeover Story

Step 4: Ensure the hair is fully saturated and process for 40 minutes.

Logics Imprints Color How to: Blonde to Red A Makeover Story

Step 5: Shampoo and condition. Section the hair as shown to begin the cut. Remove 2 inches from the length in natural fall.

Logics Imprints Color How to: Blonde to Red A Makeover Story

Step 6: In the fringe, over direct to the left eye and point cut the line out—remove 1/8 of an inch.

Logics Imprints Color How to: Blonde to Red A Makeover Story

Step 7: Take diagonal back partings and blend the cut to frame the face, taking the corner off.

Logics Imprints Color How to: Blonde to Red A Makeover Story

 

Step 8: Using the Alternating Layering technique, project the hair straight out and release the tenstion. See where the bend of the hair naturally falls, and begin your layering there--walking your shears down to the ends. On the next section, begin from under the curve (see video). Blow dry.

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Logics Imprints Color How to: Blonde to Red A Makeover Story

Step 9: Apply Glaze to Zones 2 and 3. Glaze: Logics Imprints 1 part 10RO Full + 1 part Clear with 10-volume developer. Process for 20 minutes.

Logics Imprints Color How to: Blonde to Red A Makeover Story

Step 10: Shampoo, condition, blow dry smooth.


WE WANT TO SEE YOUR WORK! Want to be modernsalon.com's next featured artist? Send your work, and info on how you did it (color formulas, steps on styling or cutting method, etc) to MODERN's Alison Shipley ashipley@vancepublishing.com.