HOW-TO: Unique Diffusion: Concave Look With Simple Disconnection

By Lauren Salapatek | 01/08/2013 11:17:00 AM


“Unique Diffusion” from, teaches you how to create a strong but dimensional concave shape with soft disconnected lines. Learn how to work both horizontally and vertically in the exterior and through the interior to create multiple weight differences. Below, you will learn how to combine different surface techniques to achieve many different surface results; also, how to enhance disconnection and asymmetrical features that will improve the shape of the overall cut.

STEP 1: Start at nape area. Take a slight concave section from middle to right ear to middle of left ear. Take a centre profile section and using a parallel finger position project at 90%. Remove length. Working a mobile guide to outer hairline on each side maintain projection angle.


(Right side) Take a square section from above the occipital bone to above crown. Clip away and secure at front hairline above ear.

(Left side) Slight diagonal back section from middle of the crest below recession to behind left ear. Clip and secure section at front hairline above the ear.

STEP 3: Continue from vertical centre profile at the nape on a mobile guide projecting at 90 degrees and a parallel finger position using a deep point cutting technique.

STEP 4: Moving to side sections at the back, working horizontally on a medium to high projection angle using the centre as a length guide. Continue to remove length - directing fingers back to leave length longer towards the ear area. Repeat on opposite side.

STEP 5: Continue to top section using back middle section and centre profile as a guide. Projecting a 90 degrees remove length. Over project through front area to leave extension of length.

STEP 6: Comb the front fringe section to natural fall. Remove length to eyebrow area, using a point cutting technique.

STEP 7: Dry the hair and personalize the cut using slide cutting and twist cutting techniques.

For more lessons like this one, visit






ABOUT THE AUTHOR: Lauren Salapatek

Lauren Salapatek Lauren Salapatek, Web Editor for Modern Salon | Salon Today | First Chair.

(Previous positions: Associate Editor/E-Newsletter Content Production Manager)

Since January 2010, Lauren has worked for Modern Salon Media covering salon style, product and beauty trends, and business editorial for both print and online content. As of October 2013, Lauren’s role changed to Web Editor—now she manages all online editorial content for, and As part of her responsibilities, she creates, edits, organizes and curates content for all Modern Salon Media’s websites; manages the creation and production of all Salon e-newsletters; promotes Modern Salon Media’s digital content via several social media accounts (Facebook, Twitter, Pinterest); and maintains an editorial calendar to keep all Modern Salon Media’s websites timely and current.

You can find Lauren on Google+ or e-mail her at


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