At Beth Minardi's recent master class at America's Beauty Show on behalf of Joico Vero K-PAK Color, she gave attendees three hours packed with color makeover demos, tips, innovative techniques and formulas and lively
question and answer segments. Here are some excerpts from the class:
Q: What's the best choice for lowlighting and/or light gray blending?
"Demipermanent acid formulas should be the colorist's best friend," says Minardi. "They're the best, low-impact choice for lowlighting, refreshing midlengths and ends, and light gray blending.
"I believe you should only lowlight with acidic formulas because lowlighting with permanent color will cause the ends to look muddy. And correctly done, demis can last longer than permanent color," she adds.
One of Minardi's favorite lowlight formulas for an overly-processed blonde: Vero K-PAK Chrome equal parts G8/24K Gold (a medium golden blonde) and B6/Toffee (a light beige brown) with Activator. It provides depth and a touch of balanced warmth.
This lowlight formula is also effective for the blonde client requesting a brunette tint-back. "When your blonde client tells you she wants to be brunette," says Minardi, "don't do it. Lowlight her instead, because even though she doesn't know it yet, every blonde strand that you leave on her head will be her friend."
Q: What are no-fail formulas for a blonde, redhead and brunette?
THE BLONDE: Using her American Baliage technique of hand-painting highlights and then folding them into foil, Minardi created a shimmering, cool blonde with rich caramel lowlights, using these formulas:
Highlights: Joico Vero K-PAK De-Dusted Lightener + 20-volume developer.
Lowlights: Joico Vero K-PAK Chrome 1-oz. G8/24K Gold + 1-oz. N6/Caramel + Activator.
THE REDHEAD: Combining deeper color at the root with brighter midlengths and ends, and applying zig-zag, foiled lowlights after processing the permanent color, Minardi transformed a virgin Level 3-4 brunette into a vibrant, believable redhead.
Root area: Joico Vero K-PAK Color equal parts 5RM/Red Mahogany + 6RR/ Ruby Red + 20-volume developer.
Midlengths and ends: Joico Vero K-PAK Color 1 . oz. 7RC/Red Copper + . oz. INC/Copper Intensifi er + 20-volume developer.
Lowlights: Joico Vero K-PAK Chrome 1 oz. RR/Really Red + 1 oz. RB4/Amaretto + Activator.
THE BRUNETTE: Thanks to a cool red foundation, warm, golden highlights, cool lowlights and a sparkling glaze, Beth's model emerged with subtle dimension and a burnished glow.
Nape: Joico Vero K-PAK Chrome . oz. VR/Passion Fruit + . oz. RRV/Really Red-Violet + Activator.
Highlights: . oz. Joico Vero K-PAK Color 9G/Light Golden Blonde + . oz. 8RRG/Medium Red Gold + 30-volume developer.
Lowlights: Joico Vero K-PAK Chrome B6/Toffee + Activator
Glaze: Joico Vero K-PAK Chrome G9/Spun Gold with a drop of RR/Really Red + Activator.
For more information on Beth Minardi classes for Joico Vero K-Pak Color, visit joico.com.