Chem Lab: What’s in “Organic” Hair Color?

Color longevity comes from deeper roots and a long-lasting product. Color: Frances DuBose for All-Nutrient.

Charles Frank, president, All-Nutrient, Manchester, New Hampshire

Our creme-oil base uses certified organic extracts, organic derivatives and a proprietary organic compound. There are no parabens, amines or betaines; it's sulfate-free. The heavy dye load gives it a stronger coupling action than most double-dye load brands. Permanent color needs ammonia to open the cuticle and achieve the desired results; we don't hold back that we use it. Ammonia substitutes, MEA (mono-ethanolamine) and AMP (amino-methylpropanol), don't provide the same punch, chemically speaking.

Raoul Perfitt, managing director, Herb UK Ltd, for Organic Colour Systems
We were the first hair color company to use certified organic ingredients. Organic refers to the holistic approach we take to color. The Oxford English dictionary defines organic as "of the elements of a whole harmoniously related." We removed ammonia and use a combination of an alkaline-base derived from soya and a pH adjuster, ethanolamine. It's permanent color and can cover 100 percent of gray hair up to Level 8.

(According to Perfitt, many hair color brands use both ammonia and mono-ethanolamine.)