Modern Salon: How do you teach your salon clients to take care of their curly hair?
Ouidad: “I teach my clients all curls are different,” says Ouidad, who owns salons and a line of products devoted to curly hair. “The key to healthy hair is identifying and understanding their personal curl pattern by selecting
products and a treatment routine that works for their hair. I educate my clients on the structure of the curl and the curl pattern so they understand how curly hair works—if it’s baby fine and the internal layer is lifted, hair will frizz and be more difficult to manage.”
“Shampooing curly hair is important because it rinses away dirt and oils, allowing the root to breathe. However, it is not beneficial to shampoo on a daily basis—generally, it is best to shampoo curls two to three times per week. Curls tend to lose nutrients and moisture, so frequent deep conditioning is vital to restoring and maintaining health and keeping hair frizz-free.
“My signature ‘rake and shake’ styling technique is simple to do at home and can create any type of curls desired. Start by using fingers or the Ouidad Double Detangler to comb through a leave-in conditioning spray such as Ouidad Botanical Boost to seal in moisture. Starting at the nape, divide hair into sections—finer sections will create tighter curls while bigger sections will create looser curls. Take a nickel-sized dollop of styling product into palms. Separate fingers on one hand and rake the section from scalp to ends, applying the styling gel throughout the section. When you reach the end of the hair, gently shake hair back and forth to spring the curl back. Then, let go of the section and allow hair to fall into place. Repeat the above steps for each section. For added height and volume, place duckbill clips at the root of the hair and diffuse from underneath or let it dry naturally.
“For the finishing touch, rub a bit of Ouidad Clear Control Pomade or Ouidad Shine Glaze between your palms
and in one motion smooth your hands over your hair from front to back as if you’re creating a ponytail and spritz
with styling mist. To make hair last overnight and in between shampoos, sleep with a loose ponytail held with
a scrunchie—do not use anything that will crease the curl pattern. In the morning, wet hair slightly and recap with Ouidad Botanical Boost to revive curls.”
Titi Branch: “Curly haired clients are a highly informational bunch. We spend time with each client to find out what their needs and desires are for their curly hair,” says Titi Branch, creator of Miss Jessie’s Line of products
and owner of Miss Jessie’s Salon in Brooklyn, New York.
“In the salon it starts with the consultation where we determine what hair type the client has and what they want to achieve. We get a full description of their hair history and prior product usages in order to determine a plan of action to get them to reach their optimal curl. Caring for curly hair starts with cleansing. We recommend a moisture-rich, non-sulfate cleansing cream like Miss Jessie’s Crème de La Curl. We tell the client the frequency
they should be cleansing their hair and physically show them how to handle their hair during cleansing.
“From there it’s all about conditioning. We recommend smoothing on a conditioner and applying a deep conditioner afterward under an overhead dryer for about 20 minutes. After this treatment we detangle.
“Then we apply a product based upon the curly style the client is looking to achieve. Product selection is usually
Miss Jessie’s Curly Pudding. After the curly styling is done we usually follow up with a moisturizing recommendation. This is generally Baby Buttercreme or Curly Buttercreme. Showing clients how to care for their air is largely instructional and collaborative. These clients are looking for answers and real solutions for styling their hair at home—so of course it involves a bit of hands-on training.”