Strong side disconnects are melodic with over-under color.
“The cut is very short in back and has a lot of layering,” says Stenstrom, who uses a five-toothed shear for the job. “For the strong front, I overdirect the pieces back, then forward. Because areas, like the fringe, are so heavy, the last thing you want is dark, solid color all-over.”
That’s where colorist Shannon Davis comes in, playing the back and forth like lyricist to songwriter. To create a color design that appreciates the cut, she determines how much texturizing and layering is involved.
“This tells me where to place the darker color so it pops out, adding dimension,” says Davis.
“After the color is complete, break into the cut, piecing it out for detail,” advises Stenstrom. “Cutting on dry hair and determining where you want color to peek through lets you produce to the color’s beat, customizing the final creation for each client.”
Color that Complements
1. Section off an outline around the head by parting off a 1 1/2-inch panel that starts behind the front hairline and moves around the face and back through the nape. Use a slight zigzag parting to avoid harsh lines.
2. Apply the Outline Formula to this section, using a small application brush. Seal in foil.
3. Apply Formula 2 to the rest of the hair, completely saturating it from roots to ends. Once the application is completed, process for a minimum of 40 minutes. “Using intense reds requires more time to lift and deposit,” says Davis.
4. Shampoo, rinse and apply the glosser. Re-rinse after 5 minutes.
Outline: 2-oz Wella Color Touch 3/66 (Level 3 violet/violet) with Gentle Emulsion Developer (slightly under 10 volume.)
Formula 2: Wella Color Touch (double-pigmented red), 1-oz 55/46 (Level 5 red/violet), 1-oz 44/65 (Level 4 violet red/violet) and 1/2-oz 5/0 (Level 5 natural) with equal parts 20-volume developer.
Glosser: 1-oz Wella Magma Clear Shine
Hair by Elizabeth Stenstrom, L Salon and Color Group, San Mateo, CA. Color by Shannon Davis. Photo by Tom Carson. Production by Global Hair & Fashion Group.