Aura Friedman |
"The best way to avoid a fast re-growth is to match your formula closely to your client's
natural hair color," says Wella Professionals' Lead Color Ambassador, Aura Friedman.
It's also important to keep the hairline lighter and softer. This will keep their
color looking as natural as possible, and re-growth to a minimum, especially because
people who are mostly gray tend to have a mostly gray hairline, and the hairline is
what people see first. Use Wella Professional's Koleston Perfect new Pure Naturals
to cover primarily gray hair. This product will give good, but slightly translucent,
coverage. It is just enough to cover gray but not too opaque to make the re-growth
so obvious that it will show up as quickly as some intensive permanent color. The
Pure Naturals will cover the gray, give it a little lift, and will keep the tones cooler
and more natural. This will allow the natural base color to blend in better when the
natural color grows out. -Aura Friedman
Estelle Baumhauer |
"My biggest challenge with lasting color that covers gray is not about hair color-it
is reminding clients that hair grows and their new hair has no dye," says colorist
Estelle Baumhauer, who has worked in salons such as Warren-Tricomi in New York
and Dessange in Paris. By nature, contrast between gray hair and dark hair re-growth
is more noticeable.
"Regardless of color, I always pay attention to the gray percentage in the hair. I add
more base into a formula for people with a higher percentage of gray to ensure better
coverage and natural-looking results. Dark brunettes tend to dye their hair more often
because gray is visible more quickly. Overall, coloring with their original hair color or
one shade lighter will create a lasting and natural effect.
"For brunettes, my advice is: Choose warm browns and chocolate tones, which
are easily absorbed by gray. For redheads and strawberry blondes, shades of copper
and auburns look best on gray hair. They appear natural looking and leave highlight
transparencies. Blondes hold color the longest because the re-growth contrast will
be less obvious. For blondes, soft colors like beiges and golden tones will create harmony
between the roots and the ends. I formulate color with more base depending
upon the level of gray and tones that complement their skin tone." -Estelle Baumhauer
Jennifer Jordahl |
"When it comes to covering stubborn gray hairs we look at it in a
couple different ways," says Jennifer Jordahl, senior colorist at Red 7
Salon in Chicago. "A permanent hair color line like Kolsten Perfect by
Wella will give you great, full-gray coverage, but that can also make the
re-growth much more noticeable when the client's natural hair starts
growing back. Using a demipermanent color like Color Touch by Wella
will give more blended coverage, not 100 percent, but a more blended
line of re-growth will make the color seem to last longer."
"I like to use a demipermanent color, when I can, so clients may go
longer between appointments. Also, keeping in mind, the closer the
color you choose to your client's natural shade makes it seem to last
longer because there won't be as much noticeable re-growth. I also like to always add some warmth to the color
formulation as natural hair color and grays tend to be ashier. The warmth will brighten them up and reflect the
light better to add shine to the hair." -Jennifer Jordahl
For reprint and licensing requests for this article, Click here.