Want to tap into the curly-haired male market?
Check out these trends for 2011 and make
yourself a men’s texture guru.


Texture Trends for Men 2011
Photo courtesy of American Crew


Regardless of the age or attitude
of the men in your
chair, most will want texture
for spring, because
it’s versatile, and it suits
the new, longer lengths. While businessmen
will favor refined, old-Hollywood
styles—think tapered Mad Men
cuts—younger guys will still only pretend
not to have Bieber fever by calling
their style “Beatlesque.” Urban
ethnic guys will grow it a tad beyond
skin-fades, while others will continue
to give props to the Mohawk, Low
Hawk and Faux Hawk.


According to Redken for Men consultant
and stylist at NYC’s Cutler Salon,
Jenny Balding, a spring/summer
trend will be longer top with a disheveled
look all around.


“Bradley Cooper’s hair is a perfect
example,” says Balding. “The look is
longer through the top and slightly
shorter at the back and sides. It’s
heavily texturized to create an unkempt
finish, which keeps the look
very versatile.”

Texture Trends for Men 2011
Bradley Cooper. (Jason Kempin/Getty Images)

Texture Trends for Men 2011
Justin Bieber. (Chris McKay/WireImage)


Paul Wilson, American Crew’s artistic
director, says curl and volume will
make the strongest texture statements.
“The combination of these two are the
underlying trend in men’s texture right
now,” notes Wilson. “It’s curl that defies gravity—something existing that
has been loosely manipulated.”


Ouidad, who owns namesake salons
in NYC and Santa Monica, California,
says the Mohawk also remains popular.
“Basically, it’s a strip of hair of varying
length, starting at the forehead or
further back and running to the back
of the head,” notes Ouidad. “It can be
long, short, spiky, wavy or any other
creative shape. Usually, it’s a couple of
inches wide, but that can also vary, depending
on the desired look.”


Texture-Length Connection


You need a little extra length for any
type of texture play, which is why the
trends are intertwined. At Xena’s Beauty
Company in New York City, Framesi
educator Xena Parsons says that slightly
longer tops and softer, wispier edges are
the hallmark of the mod-feeling, Beatles-
length look, and that it’s created, in
part, with slide cutting.


“The edges are softer with a little
less interior texture,” says Parsons.
Even the classic men’s short cut is getting
updated with a wispy edge.”


In Sturtevant, Wisconsin, Andis’
director of education and customer
engagement Ivan Zoot agrees that
younger guys are still going long and
mop-topped, while the traditional
texture market is stepping up from
super-short fades.


“Length is relative,” says Zoot.


“The client who had his hair faded to
the skin and now has half-inch on the
sides thinks that’s a lot more hair.”
In addition to men opting for longer
looks, styling is either intentionally
uncontrived or highly polished,
according to Terry Wells, founder of
Seattle-based TowelDry.


“One look is slightly un-styled with
a subtle part,” says Wells. We’re also
seeing layered lengths with a ’80s retro
teardrop shape swooping across the
front. The third main trend is the slick,
styled look that requires more product
to avoid lines and marks, and to add
shine,” adds Wells.



Special Salon Services


Celebrities are always the biggest influence, and most men are going a
little longer because the stars are. To
help his clients grow it out, Alan Kossof,
who co-owns Teddy Kossof Spa
Salon in Northfield, Illinois, says he
does not charge full price for maintenance
cuts (perimeter, neckline and
ear-area trims). Once guys have the
length they need to get a little extra
texture, they’re opting for slightly casual
looks by day (slightly gel-slicked)
and, yes, “romantic,” looks by night.


“For nighttime looks, we suggest
forming cream and texture paste,” says
Kossof. “You need two to three inches
to create texture, and for that length,
I like styling wax for light, medium or
firm hold.”


To allow maximum texture play,
Kossof offers two smart services:

• Volume Shampoo Treatments. For
men who have thinning hair, which
can limit options, Kossof creates immediate
texture by adding perm solution
to his shampoo. The basic ratio
is four parts water to one part perm
solution, then the mixture is added
to the shampoo. “Distribute it evenly
and leave it on for about 10 minutes,”
he says. “Base timing on the hair’s
strength, porosity, length and the desired
results, and keep all your chemical
steps in mind: protect the hairline,
base the scalp and so forth.”

• Keratin Blow Out. Address the opposite
texture challenge—like Seinfeld’s
Kramer—by offering men with unruly
texture a curl-controlling keratin
express treatment at the backbar.
Apply with a bowl and brush, place
the client under the dryer for 15-20
minutes, then perform the cut with
the product still in the hair. (There’s
no shampooing for 8 hours.) “With
zero flatironing, you get a 20-30-percent
texture reduction,” says Kossof.

Don’t forget the keratin retail companion,
which can also be used to
give men a temporary taste of texture
reduction—it’s best for medium to
longer hair.”

Texture Trends for Men 2011
A little extra length goes a long way in men’s hair trends this spring.


Stylin’ Smarts

Whatever the cut, the ultimate way to
get texture play is with the right products
for the goal and styling tricks you
share with your client. Some texture
experts share their tips.


At Ouidad’s salons, the Mohawk
is created with a long-lasting gel, like
Ouidad Clear Control Pomade. “Mold
the hair into any shape, as long as it all
flows in line,” says Ouidad.


For the versatile long-on-top,
shorter-at-the-sides cut, Balding says
it goes slick or textured, depending on
the finishing product you use. “Redken
For Men Get Groomed finishing
cream is fantastic for medium-to-fine
textured hair,” she says. “It’s weightless
with a natural-looking finish, so
it smoothes the hair without weighing
it down. Mint Shape Forming Paste
is best for medium-to-thick textured
hair. It is a very moldable paste with
a medium hold. Based on hair type,
pick the one best for your clients hair
type, and apply to dry hair for best
results.”


In a nod to the texture trend,
American Crew recently launched
four new styling products: Boost
Powder, Boost Cream, Curl Control
and Curl Construct. They were created
to control and enhance texture,
allowing stylists to achieve all the
spring runway looks. “Combine Boost
Cream and Boost Powder to achieve
enhanced wave and elevation,” says
Wilson. “To detail natural wave or
texture, start with Curl Construct as
your foundation, then combine Curl
Construct and Pomade to add shine
and separation.”


As men become increasingly sophisticated
and style conscious, last
year’s barber shop to salon migration
is expected to continue, and savvy
stylists with diverse textural skills will
reap the full benefit.