For years, state boards taught “outdated” skills like pin curling and roller setting. Just when they upgraded requirements, the trends hit a fever pitch on the red carpet, notes Nancy Brown, co-owner with husband Ed of the Brown Aveda Institutes in Mentor and Rocky River, Ohio. “Now, we teach these in our advanced classes,” says Brown. Her instructor: An 81-year old who entered beauty school at 47 and was Brown’s first employee! The need-to-knows:
- Pin Curls: It’s all about the base and direction. “For that resilient, bouncy look, you need clean partings, even sections and on-base placement,” says Brown. “Even for looser, modern looks, you have to know the rules to break them.”
- Marcel Waves: Use a hard, rubber comb and pay attention to the direction of the iron. “You can’t have hair that’s too dry, meaning damaged; you need moisture/protein balance,” says Brown. “The cool-down is more important then the heat; cooling seals waves in place.
- Smokey Blonde: “Today, we know more about contributing pigment, so instead of removing all undertones, lift just past orange, then put back the color to neutralize remaining pigment,” says Brown. “Tone with a permanent color, used with a lower developer volume and shortened timing.”
If you aren’t learning Marcel waving, pin curling and roller setting, you’re severely limiting your special occasion and high-fashion styling abilities.