Next, skinny sections of hair are set using Japanese straight pins. The technique is simple. Slip a section through the open pin and then weave it back and forth in a figure-8 pattern around the prongs of the pin. It’s a bit like knitting. Then gently twist the ends of the pin together to hold the twisted pin-curl in place. We start this “set” about 1 1/2 to 2 inches from the center part because we want the hair at the crown to be smooth while the rest of the hair will be frizzed out.
After a section is twisted and pinned, lift the section by the end of the pin, place it between the plates of a flat iron, then clamp the plates together and hold it in place for a few seconds to seal in the heat, which locks in the curl. The pinning and flat-ironing steps are repeated until all the hair is set. Because so many sections have to be set this way, we need as many as four or five hair stylists at a time to style each model.
Once all flat-ironed sections are cooled, gently undo the pins and the hair is released into springy spirals of curls. Next, brush and proceed to fluff out and feather the curl by brushing it out so that the frizzed-out curls literally float in the air. Because we want to keep the look airy and not stiff, we finish the look with finishing spray for flexible hold that leaves hair easy to brush out and allows the beautiful movement we want.
For more information on René Furterer, visit www.renefurterer.com.