Celebrity Hairstylist Frank Barbosa and René Furterer recently presented a craft class on the art of cutting long layers at Vidov Salon in NYC, the latest stop for the René Furterer Academy, the brand’s touring education platform.
Demo 1: Saranda
Emphasizing the importance of the client consultation, Barbosa explained, “As hairstylists, we want to energetically align ourselves with our clients. As the client sits in your chair and you’re combing through her hair, ask what products she’s using, find out what she is expecting from a haircut, make recommendations.” Model Saranda said, “I would like to keep my length, I want to keep volume and feel that nice layering would add volume. I’d also like to be able to put my hair in a ponytail.”
Barbosa showed how to do do a wet to dry look, using René Furterer LISSEA thermal protecting smoothing spray as his cutting lotion. "I’m going to be doing four basic vertical partings, clipping off each section down the middle, front and back."
Here, Barbosa explains the step-by-step process:
STEP 1: "Starting with the lower section in back, section by section I take a one and a half-inch section, and show the client; this is done to include the client in the cutting process. I take the section; hold it at a 90-degree angle from the head and using my Washi shears with textured tips, I point-cut that length of hair. I do not blunt-cut layers. Blunt cuts are dated and all you see are the layers. Think Janet Jackson in The Pleasure Principle or Ellen Barkin in the ‘90s. When you point cut, you cut from the way out, not the way in. Point-cutting adds movement and makes layers imperceptible."
STEP 2: "Next, using a small round brush I blow-dry the lower section in back, taking one and a half-inch wide sections, and section by section, lifting the brush up and out from the base of the neck to create body in the back. When each section is almost dry, I twirl the brush mid-shaft three times to give hair a bend. In film we have a short window to get hair ready. Blow-drying sections while I’m cutting adds movement to the hair and speeds up the cutting process. I double and triple book myself, which is why a speedy technique works best for me. I always have two chairs going—a cut like this takes about 45 minutes."
STEP 3: "When the bottom sections are dry, I take down the next parting from the wet section, again, working with one-and-a half-inch-wide sections, this time holding hair at a 45 degree angle. I 'marry' each wet section into the dry section behind it, using it as a guide, a line a demarcation for where to point cut."