Pemberton, who celebrates her philosophy of “good things take time,” always uses 10-volume developer. “The only time I go to 20 is when I have a client who has been doing black box color at home. Most colorists would look at dark Asian hair and automatically go to 20, 30 or 40 volume. I use 10 and allow the color to lift slowly with less damage. After the hair is lifted, I deposit with semi-, demior permanent color with 10-volume.”
Pemberton wanted to keep the color off scalp and feathered. Instead of going to the ends in foil, she kept it asymmetric.