Diane Cole Stevens, a Nioxin Design Team Artist and owner and Creative Director of Cole Stevens Salons in Washington DC, has made a name for herself for by helping to revolutionize the look of hair through modern techniques, products and applications. For this session, Stevens chose model Alyssa specifically because she needed fresh hair color and would be the perfect candidate to demonstrate how the how cut and color can work to enhance the texture, density and volume of hair.

Natural Level 7 Alyssa had faded areas of red from previous home coloring. Stevens used a gradation technique of mixing a darker base with a lighter mid shaft and ends. “Using a darker base color and slowly getting lighter toward the ends creates a visual effect of denser, thicker looking hair,” says Stevens. “By using these cutting principles, she looks like she has significantly more hair than she does.”


1. Begin color application at the base. Apply Wella Professionals Koleston Perfect 6/4 and 10-volume developer in ½-inch sections.

2. From mid shaft to ends, apply Wella Professionals Koleston Perfect‑7/4 with 20-volume developer. Process for 30 minutes. Rinse thoroughly and shampoo with Nioxin System 5.

3. Using the Nioxin Adaptive Principles of Color, gloss the hair with Sebastian Professional Gold Red Cellophanes.

4. Cover with a plastic cap and process under heat for 30 minutes. Shampoo and condition with Nioxin System 5.

5. Bodifying Foam is applied to the lengths of towel-dried hair. Spray Diamax at the base.

6. Blow dry smooth.


Volume Principles: Cut and Style