Hair: Nick Stenson
Assisted by: Hope Doms
Photography: Roberto Ligresti
Make up: David Maderich for camerareadycosmetics.com
Fashion styling: Rod Novoa
When working with brunettes, Stenson likes to add interest and dimension. “Here, I added vintage red qualities. Nothing crazy—instead of ‘stop sign’ reds, I wanted to go with the era to make it look like rust. Colors in the ’20s were not so bold.” For shape, Stenson created an “S” wave by alternating curl patterns with a ½-inch iron. “The fun part to make it current is to exaggerate the existing undercut on one side to add a sense of asymmetry.”
1. Create a rectangular-shaped parting placed on a diagonal from the high point of the head to the hairline.
2. Combine Matrix Light Master with 10-volume developer, and alternate slices and weaves in this section to just open up the cuticle to make translucent sections.
3. Process 20 minutes at room temperature. Shampoo and blow dry.
4. To make a rusty copper demipermanent, blend Matrix Color Sync 6CG and a Copper Booster with 10-volume developer. Process 20 minutes.
5. Alternate foils with conditioner to boost shine.
6. Foils are placed as shown following the original pattern. Process according to the manufacturer’s instructions, then shampoo and condition the hair.
7. Create an exaggerated parting over right eye on a dramatic diagonal parting. Take vertical sections and curl hair away from face using a ½-inch curling iron. Clip to set.
8. Switch to a smaller iron near the back, curling in an alternating pattern.
“Blondes back in the ’20s were quite brassy,” says Stenson. To modernize the shade, Stenson balanced the color and brought her to a cooler shade. Stenson chose Matrix Color Sync demipermanent hair color to add moisture back into the hair. To update the shape, Stenson exaggerated the lines and removed unwanted ends. For the fi nish, Stenson used a micro crimper to add texture. “That is what makes it fresh and interesting.”
1. First address the new growth. Combine Matrix Light Master with 30-volume developer at the base in ¼ inch sections. Process for 45 minutes at room temperature. Shampoo.
2. Glaze the hair in ½ inch sections using a demipermanent shade: Matrix Color Sync SPV Sheer Pastel Violet with 10-volume developer. Process up to 20 minutes, depending on underlying pigment. Rinse, shampoo and condition.
3. Begin the cut in the back. Take vertical sections from the nape to the occipital. Bring to a 45-degree angle and direct back to the center. Cut to the guide.
4. Blend up to the crown, cutting to leave a weight line along the base of the occipital.
5. Blend forward to establish a line along the side. Cut with slight elevation and create a defi ned bob shape.
6. Connect the length from the back to the side, cutting with slightly elevated vertical sections. Maintain length in front and keep graduation in the back.
7. Direct the fringe forward and point-cut the front perimeter for softness. Detail the fringe when dry.
8. Once blow dried, use a medium-sized curling iron to create curls along the top of the head. Wrap in the direction you want the hair to fall. Continue above the rounds of the head.
9. Once below the rounds of the head take a micro crimper and crimp from base to ends.
10. Press the hair into the desired shape. Place hairclips into the wave and allow to set.
Products & tools
Color and lightener: Matrix Light Master, Matrix Color Sync
Shampoo and conditioner: Matrix Biolage Color Care
Stylers: Matrix Vavoom Shape Maker, Matrix Design Pulse Go Big foam
Shears: JCP Salon Exclusive shears
Nail color: OPI Muir Muir on the wall
Appliances: FHI Heat _ atiron and blow dryer, Hot Tools curling irons and Sam Villa TexturIron crimping iron
Make up: Body of Royalty lip shade; Douce eye shadow; Beauty Addicts mascara; and Bluffajo Glowing Mineral Blush