Patrick McIvor, colorist, owner of Patrick McIvor Color Studio
and Matrix Artistic Color Director is tapping into the texture
craze in a diff erent way—with color.
“When you bring out the texture with color, you don’t
change the shape or volume, but all of a sudden the hair is
soft er and you can see all the dimension and movement,”
he says. He cautions colorists to hold back a bit though.
“You must stay less than 50 percent of highlights. A base
color is the color, the highlight is texturizing. One is creating
the overall tone, the other the highlight. We are not using
highlights to create color.”
Blush Cashmere knit jacket and satin
body suit by Dolce and Gabbana.
Beige wool pannier belt by Marni
Gloves by Louis Vitton.
“Is the formula going to work for
your client? I want her to come
back when she WANTS to, not
when she HAS to.”
Lightener: V-Light De-Dusted Lightener by Matrix
Glaze: Color Sync Demipermanent color
Accessories: Product Club foils, jawclips and gloves
Shampoo and conditioner: Matrix Hydrate
Hydratherapie and Ultra Hydrating Balm
Stylers: All by Matrix: Vavoom Gold Heat Iron In
Control, Amplify Full Body Texturizer, sleek.look
sealing serum, sleek.look blow-down, Vavoom Shape
Maker Extra Hold
Blower: Centrix Q Zone
Brushes: Marilyn, Patrick McIvor round brush and
Kremes styling brush
Iron: Hot Tools curling iron
Take imprecise sections, anywhere between 1/2- and
1-inch. Backcomb from mid to base (about three
times), compacting at the scalp.
Remove a selected strand and pull out from the
section. Place the selected strands on foil and apply
color (V-Light De-Dusted Lightener with 10-volume
SoLite Cream Developer) from the edge of the
backcombing to ends.
Once over the rounds of the head, switch to weaves.
Hold out a 1-inch horizontal section and take a
traditional weave. Apply the same formula from
backcombing to ends.
Highlights are placed as shown from the crown to the
sides. No highlights are placed below the occipital.
Process to gold, then shampoo and condition.
While wet, apply the first glaze to the root: Color Sync
10MM and 10M equal parts with Color Sync activator.
Return and draw through to the lengths.
While processing, immediately apply a second
color glaze that closely matches the client’s natural
level. Using a brush and bowl, begin application in
the crown. Push the color with the brush through
the fi rst glaze and draw through to the mids.
Brush is lifted before reaching middle of section.
Continue throughout the hair. Process according to
manufacturer’s instructors, shampoo and condition.
Before styling, heat the thermal round brush.
Blow dry hair over the heated round brush.
Once smoothed, pull out 1-inch sections and spray
thermal protector on the section.
Sections are wrapped horizontally along the top and
back, and vertically along the sides. After they cool,
unwrap and style as desired.