When we were drawn to this beautiful color work on Lauren Prohaska's (@hello.darling.hair) Instagram feed, and asked if she would care to share her color formula, we were blessed with this bounty of beauty riches. Prohaska provided not only her formula, but also a peek into her comprehensive consultation process and her game plan for how to achieve the desired outcome.
We turn it over to Prohaska. Scroll down for the 'before' photos, too:
Step 1. Consultation:
Client Profile:
Color History: Never colored hair before
Occupation/Lifestyle: Photographer/Fashion Forward/Married
Hair Texture/Density: Fine/Thin
Natural Level: Level 7
Natural Tone: Muted Gold/Red
Underlining Pigment: Gold (Equal Parts Yellow and Orange)
Eye Color: Green/Hazel
Skin Color/Tone: Fair with pink and gold undertones
Desired Maintenance Level: Low
Desired Color Result: Easy to maintain / Vibrant Gold/Red (i.e Copper Blonde)
Desired Color and Cut Game Plan:
"To enhance more of my client's Gold/Red tones I'll be brightening her natural level 7 to a Level 8. By keeping her in the same Gold/Red tonal family, her new look will be easy to maintain yet have a vibrant effect," says Prohaska. "Since my client never colored her hair before and still desired a vibrant result, I chose Wella's new permanent line called Innosense which has a new technology that removes any risk of allergy."
NOTE: There are so many shades of red and copper, so spend time looking at photos of inspiration with your client and use their skin tone and eye color to choose a Red color that flatters them best.
For her cut, we chose a bold fringe and one length style with zero layers. This is a perfect cut fore her because it will create more weight in her finer hair; giving her a thicker, more bold result.
STEP 2: Reshape Hair Cut:
Cut and reshape your client's hair first before you apply any color. Always color based on the haircut.
STEP 3: Mix Color
Color A: Koleston Perfect INNOSENSE 3.5 parts 8/34 + .5 parts 8/0 + 1:1 20vol (6 %)
(A small amount of 8/0 just prevents the roots from looking too hallow or "hot")
Color B: Koleston Perfect INNOSENSE 1 part 8/34 + 1 part 30 vol (9%)
Mix after Color A and B have been rinsed out:
Color C: Redken Shades EQ equal parts 8C + 9AA + processing solution
STEP 4: Apply to Root Area:
Apply Color A to root area starting in the back and work your way to the front. My client had much lighter hair in the front (due to being out in the sun in the summer) compared to the back so to balance out her color, I chose to start in the back first.
STEP 5: Apply to Midlengths and Ends:
Apply Color B to midshaft and ends and process color for 45 min.
Once Color A + Color B are finished processing, rinse, gently shampoo and apply Post Color service for 5 min. This helps stop all color from processing and evens out porosity.
STEP 6: Apply Color Glaze:
Rinse out Color Post Treatment. Then mix and apply Color C on the roots first. (Note: Now that my client's color was evened out, I applied Color C in the front then worked my way to the back to get the most vibrant result around her face)
Immediately apply remaining Color C on the midshaft and ends and process for another 20 min.
Rinse, gently shampoo, deep condition and style as desired.
Remember to educate all of your color clients NOT to shampoo their hair with Sodium Laurel Sulfate shampoos (it will strip their color out). Also inform them to wait at least 48 to 72 hours before they shampoo their hair. Especially your red/copper girls! ;)
Color Tip: By glossing the hair one more time with a demi permanent, it will give your reds/coppers a more lasting, rich, shimmery pop!
To see more work by Prohaska, visit her social media pages:
BEFORE & AFTER:
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