When a rockstar colorist and a dynamic cutter come together to bring a vision to life—the results can inspire a generation. Tens of thousands of salon professionals have been influenced by Damien Carney and Sue Pemberton, allowing this dynamic duo to guide them and help them develop their own professional skills. It’s so much more than just designing awe-inspiring color and shape, it’s about the respect each talent has for the discipline of the other. We all win.
When Joico’s Pemberton and Carney met with model Victoria, they accepted a challenge. Victoria wanted a cool finish with a powerful cut. Knowing Pemberton’s color placement was going to be strong, Carney realized he should cut straight lines to create the edge, but finishing with a softer style.
This season Pemberton is going for drama with her color designs. “I am a big believer in using a minimum number of foils for maximum impact. I actually make it a bit more complicated than it needs to be,” she says.
As far as color selection is concerned, Pemberton admits that green-eyed Victoria should wear warm shades, either brown or red, but wanted to honor her request for a cool finish. “I was able to get away with it because I put copper into the mix. It is a great trick to give the client what she wants while still making it suitable.”
For shape, Damien Carney exercised control. “The goal here is to show the quality of the hair, the shine, the high-end color technique,” he says, “the focus is on line, all designed to complement the color.”
According to Carney, this color looks even better because of the length. “Sue and I have a signature short look and we thought this was a nice departure.” More importantly, Carney adds “It doesn’t matter what you do, as long as you do it brilliantly. This hair will look good and unreal because of the intense shine and polish.”
1. Begin with the color. First pre-lighten. From a top center parting, take a wide horizontal slice, 1/8-inch thick, and place on foil.
2. Apply VeroLight powder with 10-volume developer from edge of foil to end.
3. Continue to take horizontal back-to-back slices, bricklayered or staggered, all along the parietal, into the crown.
4. Nine slices are placed on each side. Process 30 minutes.
5. Process to yellow orange, Level 8, as shown. Dry hair.
6. Prepare three formulas:
Formula 1: Vero K-Pak Color Intensity Orange
Formula 2: Vero K-Pak Color Intensity Magenta
Formula 3: Vero K-Pak Color Intensity ½ Light Purple and ½ Orchid
7. Resection the top. Starting off the center parting, take three staggered back-to-back slices and apply formula 1.
8. Directly under take three slices and apply formula 2.
9. Then directly under those take three and apply formula 3.
10. Work into the back in same order. Repeat on opposite side for total of 18 foils. Process for 20 minutes at room temperature. Then shampoo and condition hair.
11. Begin the cut in the back. Bring down hair from below the occipital and cut straight across to the desired length.
12. Blend into the sides, cutting to leave length toward the face. Blend up to the top center parting.
13. Direct the fringe forward and cut straight across to the desired length.
PRODUCTS & TOOLS:
Color: Vero K-Pak Color Intensity and VeroLight Powder Lightener,
Shampoo and conditioner: K-Pak Shampoo and ReConstructor Intense Hydrator
Styling aids: K-Pak Color Therapy Restorative Styling Oil, Joico Design Works Shaping Spray, Joico Texture Boost, Joico Humidity Blocker
Gloves and foils: Product Club
Make-up: NYX Cosmetics, Bluffajo, Mirabella, Jane Iredale
Fashion: Diane Von Furstenburg, Cloak
Hair: Damien Carney
Color: Sue Pemberton, assisted by Stella Livoti
Photography: Roberto Ligresti
Make-up: David Maderich
Fashion styling: Rod Novoa
Nails: Reiko Omae, OPI Liquid Sand Kiss Me At Midnight