COSMOPROF Trend Report

There were no signs of economic anxiety at Bologna's Fiera in April, as retailers, spa owners, hairdressers, and business VIPs flocked to Cosmoprof to see what was new and maybe even exciting in the world of beauty.

The news:

Spa? Yah! The spa segment can't be stopped. There were more beds here than in the Holiday Inn next door: beds with water flowing through them, beds that moved and massaged weary bodies, beds filled with herbs or essential oils, beds of wood, beds of foam, beds for every purpose but sleeping. These high-ticket items were the centerpieces of the spa zones, surrounded by body care items, potpourris and scented candles.

Feet First. Along with the ever-growing spa biz comes a bevy of pedicure products. Pedicure has been a great growth area for salons abroad as well as in the U.S., and this year we noted male-oriented pedicure products. In the men's trends, many more men were used as models for hand and foot care, facials and massage services.

Plugged In. Closely connected to spa but in a class by itself is that never-ending desire to be younger, thinner, less, well. . . , lumpy ("Stop localized roundness!" promised one brochure). Exercise machines of every type were to be seen, especially those that require little effort on the part of the client (think of this as the "dream on" category), many of which can't be marketed in the U.S. Other electrical machines in abundance included those for pulsed light hair removal and skin rejuvenation treatments.

Best New Technology. So new it's not yet scheduled for release in the U.K. or U.S., the new Air Waves prototype was drawing passersby to Takara Belmont's waving system, which the company is introducing in Asia. Looking a bit like an old electric perming machine from the 1940s, it uses a revolutionary new air technique to curl hair. Could this be the key to bringing back wave treatments? Stay turned to MODERN SALON for updates.

All Aldo, All the Time. Milan hair star Aldo Coppola is the man behind two products that had attendees giving second and third looks. First, the Hygienic Brush Cleaner, a space-age style rolling cart that cleans brushes in three phases: removal of the hair, sterilization and UV-C rays. Hair is removed from as many as 15 brushes at a time in just a minute, and no detergents or pollutants are used. Coppola also introduced one of the most fun products, which gives new meaning to the word "hairball:" his ping pong and tennis ball-sized Spot Balls are a nifty way to get a more natural tone on tone effect in hair color.

Naturally Fine. Natural ingredients were everywhere, enough to whip up a fruit cocktail. And manufacturers were promoting not only the purity of their products but their ecologically correct manufacturing processes as well.

Wearing It Well. Lots of great-looking smocks and other work clothes in new lengths, from maxi to mini, ranging from double-breasted vest looks to overalls. The best were those in dazzling, high-gloss colors from Berza, and you can see them at www.berzacamici.it.

Fabulous Furnishings. Even Fendi Home has gotten in on it, which tells you just how hip and fashionable the salon furniture market has become. There's a real "custom" feeling to the Italian designs-ranging from as super-sleek as a five-star hotel bar to far-out and futuristic creations that wouldn't be out of place on a space ship.

New Shapes, Sizes, Materials. Nano-sized blow dryers, slim-as-a-CD-package irons, clear and frosted acrylic, plastic, matte black and chrome competing with close-to-neon colors-these innovations are making the items everyone takes for granted fresh again. The new looks are good for retail sales, too.

Better Red, Never Dead. Has any hair color triumphed over red? It was everywhere in Italy this year, some of it in-your-face brassy, but, more likely, in a subtle mÃ©lange of shadings accomplished with tone-on-tone techniques or extensions. Spot color was more subtle and more natural. Variations of red tones were mixed artfully with every other shade, from darkest brunette to palest blond.

It wasn't all trying and buying, of course. There were plenty of shows and platform work, with companies including Wella, Alfa Parf, L'OrÃ©al, Tigi and Framesi having entire pavilions to themselves. And added entertainment was to be had not from hair but with hats, at "Peep Show," a voyeuristic exhibition by London milliner Stephen Jones and European fashion icon Anna Piaggi, featuring fantasy chapeaux viewed through keyholes and doors left just slightly ajar. It offered a soothing oasis away from the mobbed show floors, where it seemed every attendee had a baby stroller (often with baby) or a huge rolling suitcase in tow.