Heat Exhaustion

By Rosanne Ullman | 08/25/2014 9:35:00 AM

 

Damage from the direct heat of flatirons is a concern for everyone, but especially for clients with textured hair, who really suffer when breakage causes shortened, frizzed-out ends. The frizz factor also comes into play when hair is not completely dry, but blowdrying heavily textured hair takes forever! No wonder textured hair clients look for products that cut blowdry time.

“Time is the new currency,” says CosmoProf Marketing Director Rachel Jud. “When clients can forego adding the step of heat styling, that’s adding time to their day.”

Kenra’s client campaign, “Live More, Dry Less,” invites clients to share what they do with the time freed up from blow-drying by advanced products. “It might be that they read, spend more time with their kids or hit the snooze button,” says Kenra Brand Manager Stephanie Ulmer, who points out that quick blow-drying adds time to the stylist’s day as well, permitting you to book
tighter appointments to fit in more clients and increase your income.

With lots of natural looks emerging on fashion runways, textured clients are encouraged that they might not need heat at all. “Sometimes it takes more effort to look effortless!” Jud says. “As the professional, you can help clients to make the effortless look truly effortless to achieve.”

Luckily, today’s technology helps curly clients both avoid direct heat from irons and reduce all heatstyling time.  


NON-THERMAL TOOLS

Advances in simple tools can help to direct and control curl. Experiment with di­fferent patterns to achieve varied curl e­ffects.

Mizani Lacers
Mizani’s circle-shaped foam tool gently defines even the tightest coiled hair while boosting dimension and controlling frizz.

1. Apply True Textures Leave-in-Conditioner along with Mizani Foam Setting Lotion and True Textures Moisture Stretch. Then lightly blowdry to elongate hair and remove excess moisture.

2. Using a 1-inch-wide brick pattern, begin at the nape by closing an open lacer and winding an endpaper-wrapped sub-section toward the base with medium tension. Secure the lacer by looping the right side of the lacer through the left side to create the Mizani Lacer Top Knot.

3. Place client under a hooded dryer until completely dry.

4. Emulsify Mizani Velvet Gloss in hands to add additional shine as you finger-style hair into place. Finish by spraying a light veil of Mizani Humidity Resistant Mist.


Colour Bunz

Created to replace foils and make balayage easy, these spongy rods are great for curl-styling as well. “As a styling aid, they can be used to create volume, French twists and chignons,” says creator Barbara Forgione. “As a roller, the options are endless, and they can be folded in half to create a larger diameter roller. They are best used on slightly damp hair when refreshing or creating curls, as wet hair takes longer to dry; a light mist of a spray gel before wrapping is perfect.”

1. Mist a section of hair with water or spray gel, or wet Colour Bunz, squeeze out excess water and use damp.

2. Wrap hair around Bunz in a spiral formation, and clip to hold. Continue wrapping around the head.

3.
Mist with a spray gel, let dry, then remove Bunz and scrunch for bounce and separation.


Curlformers
Now with a drying hood to provide overall indirect heat, these spiral rods shape beautiful curls and waves.

“Runways are the key to trends for the coming season,” says Debra Blake, founder of Curlformers and managing director of Shirley Valentine Salon in Manchester, England. “This style is a classic look worn by many A-listers, and it’s great for all occasions—crossing over to more structured finish for the evening. It’s a simple solution to a frequent client request for a day-to-night look with boho waves that look effortlessly styled.

1. Smooth the base by blast-drying with a bristle brush while leaving moisture at the midlengths and ends.

2. On each side of the parting, take six vertical sections including one going back to the crown.

3. Apply a smoothing cream, mousse or anti-humectant to damp hair, and insert the long-barrel Curlformers from mid lengths to ends.

4. Allow to air dry, or use the Curlformers Softhood attachment to achieve soft, bouncy curls within 30-40 minutes.

5. Remove the Curlformers and allow curl to drop for 5-10 minutes before applying a finishing product; a light oil or serum is okay for the finish.



IN-SALON SMOOTHING
“New smoothing systems smooth hair without straightening it,” reports CosmoProf Brand  Manager Jill Franklin. “The result is shortened dry time and reduced frizz, and the service lasts up to 90 days.”

Kenra Smooth
Designed for thick, coarse, unruly hair, this smoothing system reduces curl and frizz up to 99 percent without flattening texture. “It allows clients to embrace their curl but makes it  manageable on an everyday basis to do so,” says Stephanie Ulmer, Kenra brand manager. “It’s cumulative; the more times the client receives the service, the more impact it has on the hair.”

Lasio Tropic
“The best way clients can reduce time and save hair from heat is to invest in a keratin  treatment,” says Lasio artist Carmela Zampieri. “Lasio’s new Color Pro Keratin Treatment  contains revolutionary polymers that shield hair and protect it from heat up to 450°F.”



Matrix Opti.E­ffects Surf Wave

Smoother looks are in demand, says Matrix artist Robert Santana. “What is trending for textured hair is subtle, soft texture with an organic, touchable feel,” he notes. The Matrix team created this look with Opti.Effects Style Wave.


1.
Part hair and divide the front from the back with an ear-to-ear parting.

2. Taking horizontal sub-sections and using large flexi-rods, wrap hair starting at the ends up to the mid-lengths. Secure rods by bending. Note: The closer you wrap the rods to the scalp, the higher the waves will start. Continue wrapping until all sections are completed.

3. Gently mix Opti.E‑ffects Activator with waving lotion and swirl gently. Unscrew the cap to  release any gases, screw cap back on and snip applicator tip. Apply, process accordingly and, when complete, rinse with lukewarm water for 5 minutes. Towelblot each rod to remove excess moisture.

4. Apply Wave Customizer to all rods and process for 5 minutes. Do not rinse.

5. Apply Neutralizer and process for 5 minutes.

6. Unwrap rods, re-saturate and work in for 1 minute. Rinse with lukewarm water for 5 minutes.

7. Spray in Matrix Total Results Moisture Cure 2-Phase Treatment on damp hair to detangle
and prevent frizz. Apply Total Results Super Defrizzer Gel for added definition, and dry hair
using a di‑ffuser. Spray Total Results Amplify Flexible Hold Hair Spray to finish the look.



CURL-CONTROL PRODUCTS

“Textured-hair clients can use product to put bounce back into the hair, control definition and shape, and limit frizz,” says Art Emm, CosmoProf director of merchandising. “They may have to use a blow-dryer for a short time. In addition, almost every line o‑ffers a thermal-protection spray to help minimize heat damage.” For many clients, this is the perfect solution to achieve a natural look.

 

Macadamia Professional Activating Curl Cream and Taming Curl Cream

Launching in October, Activating Curl Cream activates and supports soft waves. With a control factor of 2, this lightweight, non-sticky cream hydrates and nourishes fine curls to keep them shapely and resilient—there’s no frizz and no crunch. Celebrity hairstylist and Macadamia  Professional International Creative Director Giannandrea suggests recommending this product to your textured guys to keep hair under control without looking overdone. Also debuting in October, light-defining Taming Curl Cream has a control factor of 3 to soften, hydrate and defrizz medium to coiled textures, keeping dense curls manageable and controlled without crunch.

Kenra Blowdry Collection

“Blowdry Spray was an industry leader when we launched it in 2012,” says Stephanie Ulmer. Reducing blow-dry time up to 50 percent, the spray was so popular that Kenra has built a styling collection around it; the serum is specifi cally designed for thick, coarse hair.

 

 

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ABOUT THE AUTHOR: Rosanne Ullman

Rosanne Ullman, Project Editor | Modern Salon Media

Rosanne has been writing for the salon division of Vance Publishing for more than 30 years, contributing landmark articles ranging from a year-long historical series in the 1990s marking MODERN SALON's 75th anniversary to a more recent, comprehensive tribute to Vidal Sassoon's impact on the industry. She was involved in the conceptual planning for First Chair and has directed several of Modern Salon Media's custom publishing projects. Rosanne holds a master's degree in journalism from Northwestern University's famed Medill School and contributes to her community through three elected terms on her local school board.

Rosanne is our go-to provider for Modern Salon Media's Healthy Hairdresser e-newsletter. You can e-mail Rosanne Ullman at rullman@vancepublishing.com.

 


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