Step 1: Prep the nail as usual.
Photo courtesy of
Katie Cark/ Katie B Nails
Step 2: Remove the form from the form paper and place the tab symmetrically in the middle of the form. Leave a gap where the form meets the natural nail, otherwise this will thicken the cutting zone and be more prone to tearing.
Photo courtesy of
Katie Cark/ Katie B Nails
Step 3: Precisely close the lower wings of your form together, ensuring both sides meet up flawlessly. Close the end of the form into a point.
Photo courtesy of
Katie Cark/ Katie B Nails
Step 4: Place the form carefully on the finger. From the side view, the form should be straight in line with the centre of the finger. Your eye may give the illusion this is tilting up, so hold something straight like a file or ruler to check this. From the bird’s eye view, the form should be closed. If there are gaps where the form meets the nail, the form must be tailored to fit seamlessly.
Photo courtesy of
Katie Cark/ Katie B Nails
Step 5: Using KB Form Tailoring White Gel Pen draw around the shape of the free edge. Using a white gel pen prevents staining and denting.
Photo courtesy of
Katie Cark/ Katie B Nails
Step 6: Use KB Curved Form Tailoring Scissors to cut out this template.
Photo courtesy of
Katie Cark/ Katie B Nails
Step 7: Place the form back in the same position as step 4. Any gaps will now be closed. Use the white gel pen to place a mark where the corner points of the natural free edge are.
Photo courtesy of
Katie Cark/ Katie B Nails
Step 8: Using KB Straight Form Tailoring Scissors, make approximately a 1cm long cut at a 45-degree angle
Photo courtesy of
Katie Cark/ Katie B Nails
Step 9: Correct adjustments have been made to the nail form. Place the form in the same position as step 4. Pinch underneath to fully close the form. The cuts in the previous step will allow a tight pinch and deep c-curve to be created.
Photo courtesy of
Katie Cark/ Katie B Nails
Step 10/10A: Apply the first bead of cover pink at the free edge. Create the taper on the form.
Photo courtesy of
Katie Cark/ Katie B Nails
Step 10/10A: Apply the first bead of cover pink at the free edge. Create the taper on the form. f you rely on filing to create this, the c-curve will be lost.
Photo courtesy of
Katie Cark/ Katie B Nails
Step 11: Apply the second bead of cover pink on the nail plate.
Photo courtesy of
Katie Cark/ Katie B Nails
Step 12: Apply the third bead of cover pink to create the apex. The apex should be at the back 1/3 and come out straight to the free edge.
Photo courtesy of
Katie Cark/ Katie B Nails
Step 13: File and buff into shape.
Photo courtesy of
Katie Cark/ Katie B Nails
Step 1: Prep the nail as usual.
Photo courtesy of
Katie Cark/ Katie B Nails
Step 2: Remove the form from the form paper and place the tab symmetrically in the middle of the form. Leave a gap where the form meets the natural nail, otherwise this will thicken the cutting zone and be more prone to tearing.
Photo courtesy of
Katie Cark/ Katie B Nails
Step 3: Precisely close the lower wings of your form together, ensuring both sides meet up flawlessly. Close the end of the form into a point.
Photo courtesy of
Katie Cark/ Katie B Nails
Step 4: Place the form carefully on the finger. From the side view, the form should be straight in line with the centre of the finger. Your eye may give the illusion this is tilting up, so hold something straight like a file or ruler to check this. From the bird’s eye view, the form should be closed. If there are gaps where the form meets the nail, the form must be tailored to fit seamlessly.
Photo courtesy of
Katie Cark/ Katie B Nails
Step 5: Using KB Form Tailoring White Gel Pen draw around the shape of the free edge. Using a white gel pen prevents staining and denting.
Photo courtesy of
Katie Cark/ Katie B Nails
Step 6: Use KB Curved Form Tailoring Scissors to cut out this template.
Photo courtesy of
Katie Cark/ Katie B Nails
Step 7: Place the form back in the same position as step 4. Any gaps will now be closed. Use the white gel pen to place a mark where the corner points of the natural free edge are.
Photo courtesy of
Katie Cark/ Katie B Nails
Step 8: Using KB Straight Form Tailoring Scissors, make approximately a 1cm long cut at a 45-degree angle
Photo courtesy of
Katie Cark/ Katie B Nails
Step 9: Correct adjustments have been made to the nail form. Place the form in the same position as step 4. Pinch underneath to fully close the form. The cuts in the previous step will allow a tight pinch and deep c-curve to be created.
Photo courtesy of
Katie Cark/ Katie B Nails
Step 10/10A: Apply the first bead of cover pink at the free edge. Create the taper on the form.
Photo courtesy of
Katie Cark/ Katie B Nails
Step 10/10A: Apply the first bead of cover pink at the free edge. Create the taper on the form. f you rely on filing to create this, the c-curve will be lost.
Photo courtesy of
Katie Cark/ Katie B Nails
Step 11: Apply the second bead of cover pink on the nail plate.
Photo courtesy of
Katie Cark/ Katie B Nails
Step 12: Apply the third bead of cover pink to create the apex. The apex should be at the back 1/3 and come out straight to the free edge.
Photo courtesy of
Katie Cark/ Katie B Nails
Step 13: File and buff into shape.
Photo courtesy of
Katie Cark/ Katie B Nails
Nail artist and teacher Katie Barnes is known for her mastery of extreme shapes. An international award winner, former NTNA competitor, and the creator of the Katie Barnes Tool Range, Barnes believes that education is the key to advancing in your career.
Here she takes us through her steps to shaping a lovely ballerina nail on a barely-there bitten nail bed.
Learn more about Katie Barnes Tool Range
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Originally posted on NAILS Magazine
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