True Blue How To: Hope is in Style Comes to Life

Color: Alexandra Matiz

Cut: Marylle Koken

Photography: Roberto Ligresti

Make-up: David Maderich for MAC Cosmetics

Fashion styling: Rod Novoa

Nails: Amanda Smith

The yearlong Hope Is In Style campaign unites the salon professional community in the fight against diabetes to raise awareness and funds for what can be a career-threatening disease for stylists.

Diabetes affects one in every 12 Americans and is a career-threatening disease to hairdressers. To raise awareness for research, care and a cure, Reuben Carranza, CEO of Wella North America, partnered with City of Hope—a world leader in breakthrough medical technology.

Blue is the universal color of diabetes, so a special shade of blue was created to serve as the official color of the Hope is in Style Campaign.

For this collection, Wella artist Alexandra Matiz and Sebastian artist Marylle Koken planned to feature a blue panel to honor the campaign but were inspired by the movement in this model’s hair and decided to make a more dramatic statement.

“We chose to use her hair shape and color to reflect waves—crashing waves—that show different shades of blue as the color ‘crashes’ down the movement of the waves in the hair,” Koken says.

The Hope is in Style campaign is still accepting donations at cityofhope.org/hopeisinstyle. Just click the “Donate Online” button to make your or your salon's donation.

true blue How-To

After an intense consultation, Matiz began the color process using two different lifting formulas to add variations of color, and two blue shades—a light indigo and a blue/green. The shades were diluted with developer and processed for different lengths of time.

“My goal with using the different lighteners, dilutions and processing times was to create a variety of shades throughout the hair to honor the shades of the blues in the sea which are irregular and organic,” Matiz says. “It looks like I used four or five formulas, when I only used two.”

Steps:

STEP 1: Place a slice on foil from a horizontal section along the parietal bone. Feather lightener Blondor Soft with 13-volume developer from off scalp to ends.

STEP 2: Cover with foil.

STEP 3: Balayage above the rounds of the head using Magma, equal parts /89 + /07 with 40-volume developer. Take “wave” subsections and balayage the peaks of the wave, getting as close to the roots as possible.

STEP 4: Process until hair in the foils reaches a Level 10. Shampoo and condition.

STEP 5: Return to the previously lifted areas. Place the hair on a balayage board and apply Koleston Perfect: 1 part 0/28 + 6 parts Pastel developer.

STEP 6: As you work up the head, alternate with Koleston Perfect: 2 parts 0/88 + 1 part 0/65 + 10 parts Pastel developer. The more developer you add into these formulas, the lighter the color. In some cases the color was processed quickly to achieve different variations of blue tones. Rinse with cool water to prevent colors from overlapping. After rinsing, apply Magma Color Complete for five minutes.

STEP 7: To style, curl with an iron, pin to set.

Products & Tools:

Lightener: Blondor

Color: Magma, Koleston Perfect

Developer: Color Touch

Shampoo: Brilliance

Stylers: Sebastian Mousse Forte and Potion 9

Nails: OPI Keeping Suzie at Bay, OPI Dining Al Frisco

Make-up: Mirabella Colour Queen Daring Duos Eye Shadows in Titan; Ardell lashes

Don't forget to check out MODERN's new Healthy Hairdresser section dedicated to providing salon professionals with wellness ideas and tips for keeping them healthy. Editorial Director Michele Musgrove's November editorial Healthy Hairdresser column is below: