SHORT HAIR DON'T CARE: Adrienne Rogers Colors the Cut

Ever wonder what your client is thinking when you mix up several different shades in different bowls, then slice, weave, section, part, apply foil on top of foil, bricklayer and place different shades within the same section? It’s hard not to think that those techniques are anything but admired by the client in the chair, especially when the results are stellar. Watching a skilled colorist pull out all the stops on a single head of hair is fun and awe-inspiring.

 

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Flash Forward, the new technique recently introduced by Product Club, involves building color through dramatic weaving and slicing, all to create strength in the design. Adrienne Rogers, one of the creators of the technique, decided to up the ante and select a model needing a bit of color correction on top of wanting a beautiful end result. “I wanted to take her back to a more natural color, while keeping it young and playful with a bit of an edge,” she says. “The best way to accomplish a fresh finish is using strong placement with soft wearable colors.”

Rogers connected to the scalp while holding onto pockets of depth. “The goal is to have a progression; building intensity,” she says. “There is a connection to the scalp.” All foils are placed back to back to create a deeper base. “This works best placing weave, slice, slice and going from root to end with the darkest shade in every third foil for depth.” Rogers switches sides every two inches for even processing. “It is more time consuming,” she says. “But in the end, it’s worth it.”

STEP 1: Begin the color in the back. Section as shown, with a horseshoe parting along the rounds. Blend equal parts Redken Shades EQ 06GN and 05N and apply this base formula from the parting to the nape. 

STEP 2: Blend in to the sides, keeping below the parietal. Apply color from base to ends.

STEP 3: Now go to the top. Part down the center and take a large weave from the hairline. Place on foil. At scalp to ½ inch down, apply the base formula.

STEP 4: Through the midlengths, apply Redken’s Up to 7 powdered lightener with 20-volume developer.

STEP 5: On the ends apply the lightener with 30-volume developer.

STEP 6: Place a second foil directly on top as an overlay.

STEP 7: Take hearty back-to-back slices, continuing to color as above, applying lightener throughout the lengths.

STEP 8: Continue into the back, all above the rounds, applying color in diagonal sections up to the crown. Alternate weaves and slices. Repeat on the other side. On every third foil go base to ends for depth. Go back and forth every two inches for more consistent processing. At the back, alternate weaves then base color from base to ends in foils.

STEP 9: Process for 20 minutes at room temperature. Shampoo and condition.

STEP 10: To neutralize the red tones, glaze with equal parts 09N, 08GN and 08GG. 

STEP 11: Process for 10 minutes at room temperature.

PRODUCTS & TOOLS

Color: Shades EQ, Up to 7 lightener, by Redken Irons: ghd, Hot Tools Blow dryer: BabylissPro

Accessories: Gloves and foils by Product Club Brush: Ergo

Styling and care: Oribe Dry Texture, Davines Medium Hairspray, NoU NoU Nourishing Repairing Mask

Make-up: Butter London Gloss in Tea With The Queen lip color

Nails: Zoya Chantal

Fashions: Versace teal top; Zara skirt and jewelry; Alberta Ferretti pink shell; Top Shop jacket; Versace blue dress; and Top Shop nck piece.