Marcus Byerly is one of MODERN’s new fave artists. Based at Studio 135 in Knoxville, Tennessee, Byerly is a talented colorist who classifies himself as a fine artist and photographer “So color theory comes naturally for me,” Byerly says.
On his instagram page (@marcusbyerly) he shares tips, info and formulas. MODERN contacted Byerly to get the how-to for one of his strongest metallic finishes (which he follows with great tips).
GET THE COLOR
STEP 1: Client is a natural level 7. Zone 1 formula: Redken Flash Lift and 30 volume
Zone 2/3: Flash Lift and 40 volume.
STEP 2: Process at room temperature for 45 minutes.
STEP 3: Rinse and shampoo with Redken Blonde Idol.
STEP 4: Dry hair 80% and tone with Redken Shades EQ gloss: 1 oz 09t and 1 oz processing solution. No clear. Straight up.
STEP 5: Process for the max 20 minutes.
STEP 6: Rinse and condition with Kenra Nourishing Masque.
STEP 7: Dry the hair completely.
-For silver blondes, Redken wins me over with Shades EQ 09T . The background colors are blue/silver with no violet, so the hair never ends up lavendar-looking. Even though it is a level 9 deposit, it can be used on level 7 and 8. This shade neutralizes brass, especially in conjunction with 6T. It also provides a true silver color, not gray, not blue. It’s a fantastic metallic, chrome shade.
-Pre-lighten the hair as light as you can to pale yellow. The less yellow, the better - it needs to be platinum ready.
-Always tone the hair 80% to bone dry. The colorist can see what level the hair truly is, enabling him or her to formulate accurately. Toning wet hair is harder, because it looks more gold.
-Silver tends to fade easily, so I always recommend my clients use a sulfate free shampoo and a violet depositing conditioner, ideally Blonde Idol by Redken. Matrix So Silver and Pravana are also great.