Q: What’s the best way to keep my clients happy, but still introduce new techniques?

 

A: "Most of what’s hot and new in hair color is not what the majority of your clients want," says David Stanko, Cutler NYC Colorist and Redken Brand Ambassador. "What’s hot only applies to 10% of my clients, who want gray coverage, great highlights and slight tonal adjustments. You have one opportunity to nail the first-time client who comes in to 'match her touch-up.' Make sure you fully understand natural level and hair’s texture, and that you read the existing color for warmth, neutrality or coolness. The biggest mistakes colorists make is not properly assessing the natural level, selecting a shade that’s too light for the natural level or improperly selecting a shade that’s not capable of controlling warmth.

 

Also, you must have a highlight pattern that addresses all the ways a woman wears her hair. Tonal shifts related to fine-tuning the color a woman has that she wants to minimize or enhance. The right demi-color, like Shades EQ, will fine-tune the existing color in a 'translucent' way, without an opaque coverage. Just know that demi-colors love porosity; select your shade and timing wisely. No one wants dark ends and hot roots!"

David Stanko, Cutler NYC Colorist and Redken Brand Ambassador

 

For reprint and licensing requests for this article, Click here.