Q: How can I get 100 percent gray coverage on clients with resistant gray?
A: "First, make sure the color you are selecting for your client is a permanent color," says Clairol Professional and Wella Color Charm Education Manager Lindsay Perez. "Otherwise, the end result will be more like gray blending, as opposed to gray coverage. Shades within the Neutral, Natural or Intense Neutral families are the best choice for getting excellent gray coverage, because they have all the pigments that gray hair is missing. If your client’s desired final result requires using other tones like red or ash, determine the appropriate amount of neutral to mix into your formula, based on the percentage of gray in your client’s hair. For example, if your client has 50% percent gray and wants a beautiful red shade, use one part of a neutral or natural shade plus one part of a red shade in the desired Level. When it comes to developer choice, always use 20-volume and process for 45 minutes. If these tips haven’t worked, you may need to use a formula that is one level darker than the existing formula, or switch to an Intense Neutral in the same level. Remember, anything lighter than a Level 6 or 7 does not have as much pigment, which means that gray coverage may be less intense."