No matter how great the cut, a style that looks good on one person doesn't always work for the next. The below "rules of the road" and tips, courtesy of Pivot Point International, are for the seven most common facial shapes.
When communicating with your client about facial shape, be sure to use terminology that expresses your knowledge without labeling the client. Rather than saying to a client that she has a pear-shaped face, stress the fullness at the jaw and narrow forehead area. Information presented this way will be much more useful to the client.
Oval: Ideal with almost any hair design, yet may lack a point of interest and can look plain. A stronger statement with the hair design may be used to create interest.
Round: Appears short and wide rather than long and narrow. Best to add height and long, wispy side areas to narrow the cheeks. Avoid volume at sides and curls. Place volume below jaw or above temple.
Heart (Triangle): Looks good with volume at chin and little or no volume on top. Curls help soften features. Avoid cropped napes so the face doesn't look too sharp.
Square: Short and wide. Add height on top and narrowness on the sides. Apply shapes that elongate the face. Very short hair with height can look good -- along with curly textures and wisps around the face. Avoid fringe or designs with width at the jawline.
Diamond: Add fullness at chin and narrow sides. Bobs and short hair work well. Avoid long, pointed side areas and height on top.
Pear (Trapezoid): Can wear graduated forms well. long, wispy side areas make cheeks and jaw look more slender. Avoid extremely short hair and bobs that end at the jaw.
Oblong (rectangle): Add softness and width with longer, curlier hair. Chin-length hair with volume on the sides is flattering. Fringe can shorten the look of oblongs. Avoid height and long, straight hair.