HOW-TO: Golden, Sunkissed Babylights on Level 6-7 Hair

MODERN recently interviewed Rona O’Connor, Goldwell’s Celebrity Colorist about babylights application, maintenance and more. Here, O'Connor provides us with her formulas and process for achieving these beautiful babylights on level 6-7 natural virgin hair. "This technique allows color control using two shades in foils and painting/balayage of a third," she says. "I used Goldwell color for this particular look."

THE FORMULAS:

FORMULA 1: 15 mls Goldwell Topchic Hair Color Blonding Cream Ash, 5 mls 8gb, mix with equal parts 30 volume.

FORMULA 2: Goldwell SilkLift High Performance Lightener, 10 volume developer. (Longer working time)

FORMULA 3: Oxyplatine with 20 volume. (Faster acting being the last color applied.)

THE TECHNIQUE:

STEP 1: Section the hair in a Mohawk pattern on the crown. Starting at the back of the head, 1" above the occipital finishing at the hairline, apply Formula 1. Paint slices or a very fine weave pattern using wide foils, starting 1-1/2" away from the root.

STEP 2: Apply Formula 2. Place a second foil back-to-back, in the same very fine slices or weave pattern, but 2" away from the root. (This softens the babylights at the root and gives a graduated result.)

STEP 3: Continue this pattern across the crown in 3/4"-1" sections apart until the last 2" at the front of the hairline. 

STEP 4: Place foils in the same fine method back-to-back but closer to the scalp. 

STEP 5: Finish by applying the last two foils with Silk Lift separated by 1/4 -1/2".

STEP 6: Add two Silk Lift foils on the hairline on each side of the head, same pattern as the top front. Work quickly, especially with thicker hair.

STEP 7: To finish the look, balayage random 1/2" ribbons on the mid lengths through the ends vertically with Formula 3. Apply approximately 1-2" apart around the entire head, including the framing of the face.

Tip: If you need more time, balayage the back first. This allows for rinsing your first section if needed. 

STEP 8: Continue foiling the crown. Balayage the top midlengths throughout the ends as described.

STEP 9: Total processing time in foils is 25-40 minutes. Process the balayaged tips 10-20 minutes. Check periodically, hair lift can vary. The Silk Lift should not be lighter than the Golden Ivory. Add toner if a softer, cooler result is requested.