How-To: The Dramatic Undercut

by Lauren Quick | April 21, 2015
Hair: Geneva Cowen //
Makeup: Maria Camacho //
Wardrobe: Gianna Foltz (photo credit: Shalem Mathew) Shalem Mathew
Hair: Geneva Cowen // Makeup: Maria Camacho // Wardrobe: Gianna Foltz (photo credit: Shalem Mathew)Shalem Mathew

The world is not shying away from dramatic, short cuts right now, and we fully support the movement.

Like it or not, Hollywood tends to be a good indicator of what's trending in hair, makeup and style, and many women—Scarlett Johansson, Rihanna, Tilda Swinton, Jada Pinkett Smith, Pink, Kelly Osbourne and more—have been trading in more traditionally feminine shapes for statement-making undercuts.

"In the past, feminine shapes have typically been rounder and men's shapes leaner, but today we are applying both options to each gender," says Geneva Cowen, artistic director for Sam Villa. "Shapes that can be styled ultra feminine or masculine, depending on mood."

How-to: Dramatic undercut

Back of the head

STEP 1: Use Sam Villa Signature Series 7-inch Dry Cutting Shear and Wide Cutting Comb to cut out disconnection with a shear-over-comb technique. Cut entire area to the depth of the comb evenly.

STEP 2: Use an adjustable clipper with the blade set to most open position (position that leaves hair longest) to work from the hairline up toward the parietal.

STEP 3: At the top of this section, keep the blade angled away from the head to avoid creating any lines and to create the blend with the shear-over-comb length.

STEP 4: Use clippers with the adjustable blade closed to scoop out the bottom. Work this length about halfway up the vertical plane of the side of the head and again rock the blade away at the top of the section to blend.

STEP 5: Continue toward the back of the head to create a nice, soft curve toward the back of the head with the weight line.

STEP 6: With the Sam Villa Signature Series Razor with the Straight Edge Blade, clean up the neckline and blend to the shortest area of the clipper work.

Top and crown

STEP 1: Comb hair into natural fall and establish desired length in the fringe.

STEP 2: Begin in the center of the head and take a 1/2-inch verticle section.

STEP 3: Comb each section straight up at 90 degrees.

STEP 4: Work in radial partings to connect crown length to the length in the perimeter; use deep point-cutting to create texture and movement. Continue throughout the top and crown area.

"Be sure to take time in the consultation to find out what your guest is looking for and then more time after the cut is done to teach them multiple ways to style their hair with product and tool recommendations," Cowen says.

Do You Remember Your Best Day at Work?

Do You Remember Your Best Day at Work?

by Staff

Hopefully you’re one of the lucky ones for whom a day at work feels like anything but. For you, work is full of laughter and fun, in a place that gives you confidence and makes you feel like part of a winning team. Recently, Sport Clips asked its associates to share the stories of their #sportsclipsbestday. From touching to life-changing, Sport Clips stylists are having the times of their lives! Meet them and have a peek at some of their best stories!




by Staff

There were MANY highlights from the 2019 MODERN Artist Connective Artist Session photo shoot held recently at the Eva Scrivo Salon in NYC, but one that caused a lot of buzz was the creation of the decorative florets created by Haley Garber (@beautybyhaleygarber).  Garber spent hours creating dozens of the florets that were eventually placed in the hair to accent the three final looks by Garber and her hair partner Stephanie Hodges (@stephstyles) who created the beautiful and dimensional color.

#IBELONG In Beauty: Discover Solo Artist Freedom with Salon Support

#IBELONG In Beauty: Discover Solo Artist Freedom with Salon Support

by Staff

Eric Jeter rented a salon studio for two and a half years until he realized he missed the camaraderie of other stylists. Lauren Correll joined a JCPenney Salon right out of cosmetology school, and now, as a salon manager, brings her enthusiasm for the company and the profession to her team. Both agree they wouldn’t change the unique combination of independence, teamwork, opportunity and family spirit the company offers for anything.

ColorProof’s Jim Markham was part of the celebrity hair scene in Beverly Hills in the late ‘60s...

Jim Markham Goes to “Hollywood”

by Staff

When director Quentin Tarantino’s team needed a hair stylist consultant for his upcoming film, Once Upon a Time in Hollywood, there was one obvious choice: Jim Markham.

Find out why over 400,000 subscribers love our newsletters


In our video section, watch salon professionals in action, listen to the advice of salon business experts, and tour inside the world’s top salons.

Eufora National Trainer Angie Lund believes it’s not only about filling chairs, it’s about...

Five Secrets to Successful Stylist Recruitment

by Staff

Stylist recruitment can be one of the most difficult and ongoing challenges for a leader, because not only do you want to fill chairs in your salon, it’s important to fill them with the best people.

Load More