Molten Metal Color How-To by Goldwell

Goldwell Artist Team Member Nick Pagano created a strong and feminine cut with unexpected pops of color that make the look striking.

“This collection has a tomboy feeling inspired by the Goldwell 2015 Color Zoom Collection, Traditional Rebels,” Pagano says. “It features a strong woman who’s a bit shy, wearing a boyish haircut with strong color. The strong body language paired with feminine hair movement, plus the surprise of jewel-toned colors, brings this inspiration to life. The color palette was inspired by the hues given off by burning metal.”


Natural level 5

Formula 1: Goldwell Nectaya, 30 ml 4BV with 30 ml lotion 3%

Formula 2: Goldwell SilkLift Strong, 35 ml Conditioning Crème Developer 6% (20 volume) + 1 scoop High Performance Lightener + 3 pumps Conditioning Serum Concentrate

Formula 3: (Midnight) Elumen 10 ml Bl@all + 5 ml TQ@all + 20 ml NA@8

Formula 4: (Hunter) Elumen 30 ml NA@8 + 5 ml NG@6 + 8 ml GN@all + 2 ml YY@all

Formula 5: (Trench Coat) Elumen 20 ml SB@10 + 2 ml NA@8 +3 ml YY@all.

1. Create a bandeau section slightly offset to the right in the front round of the head. Isolate this section.

2. Using Formula 1, color the balance of the hair from base to ends. Leave out the bandeau section.

3. Apply Formula 2 to the bandeau section. Process 30 minutes. Then shampoo twice with Elumen Wash. Dry hair before applying the detailing formulas to the bandeau section.

4. At the right side of the bandeau section, use horizontal partings and a combination of micro weaves, panels, and slices. First, use Formula 3 in two back-to-back micro slices. Then create one micro-weave of the Formula 1 background color. Next, create a micro section of panels with Formula 4. For the fourth section, create micro weaves using Formula 1. Then create three micro slices using Formula 3. As you progress, follow the rounds of the head within the bandeau. Repeat the application pattern until you run out of hair. You should end with Formula 1.

5. Process for 20 minutes with heat lamps or 30 minutes without. Then use Elumen lock for five minutes, rinse and condition.

Haircut and color: Nick Pagano
Makeup: Cheryl Esposito
Photography: Andrea Urbinati


For reprint and licensing requests for this article, Click here.