"As seen on Justin Bieber and Zayn Malik, the '90s is coming back but with a twist," says Alyssa Brasket, a barber at The Barbers in Washington State and the U.S. Winner of American Crew's All-Stars Challenge in 2015. "I just did this fun cut and color on my client, Connor, who was ready for a change. His inspiration was these two Justin Bieber looks. I think that lighter hair is back for young men, this summer."
STEP ONE: *Cut hair before color.
How to cut: Create a horseshoe shape parting for the discount. Use a #1 1/2 metal on clippers on bottom half of horseshoe shape section. Once you cleaned up all the hairs from bottom half section (sides and back), next use a #1A metal at the back neck area. Taper neck 2 inches up. Switch to a #1 metal for a softer taper. Go to the bottom of the neck and only clean-up 1 inch. Spray hair with water on the upper part of the horseshoe shape. Take your shears and a comb to create desired length on top. After creating the length, add texture with your feather razor to top section. Clean up ears and neck with trimmers.
STEP TWO: *Color hair.
How-to color: Connor was a level 5N. I told him before coloring it will be a three-step process and it TAKES TIME! I explained to him that to get to this level of blonde, his hair will go through some funny oranges and yellows before we get to the finished look. Also, it needed to be broken up in a week after each time doing each color, because I didn't want his hair to lose its strength and start breaking off.
First Day: After the cut, I made sure the hair was dry. I mixed 1 scoop of Redken Up To 7 with equal parts Redken 40 volume creme.
That day his hair turned into a level 7N.
*I told Connor to buy and use Matrix So Silver Purple Shampoo to start helping to tone the hair.
Day After: I had Connor come back to the shop for a second mixing of equal parts of Redken Up To 7 and Redken 40 volume creme. After lifting, his hair was the 9N orange warmth with slightly yellow tones. I used Paul Mitchell Flash Finish Ultra Violet with equal parts of Paul Mitchell 5 volume creme.
*When Connor was done for the second day, I told him to use olive oil or coconut oil, leave it on for 1 to 2 hours then shower with the Purple Shampoo, daily, to help keep the hair from breaking while still toning hair.
3rd Day: *I had him wait six days before next color. I once again mixed equal parts of Redken Up To 7 and Redken 40 volume creme. After washing the mixer out, I did a bleach wash. I used mixing of equal parts of Redken Up To 7 and Redken 40 volume creme and added Paul Mitchell Double Hitter to the mix. After that I shampooed twice with just Paul Mitchell Double Hitter. Blow dry hair to prep for last toner. I used Redken Shades EQ Gloss 09V Platinum Ice. Wash hair with PM Double Hitter. I applied American Crew Medium Spray Gel to damp hair and blow dry/round brush. After drying, I used The Barbers Max 4 Men Light Hold Design Cream.
Hair: Barber Brasket
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