Shawna Russell (@Hairbyshawna_russell) of Filomenas Salon and Spa, Coquitlam BC, says this client "reached out to me on Instagram wanting to go from her current color to a platinum bleach-out. She arrived with 2-3 inches of level 6 regrowth with red panels and 1/2 head grown out highlights." Here Russell shares the details for this makeover:
SESSION 1:
Step 1: "1st step in a color correction is that I always start with the darkest area or more pigmented areas." Apply red panels in foil with Schwarzkopf Extra Power bleach + 30 volume developer.
Step 2: Treat like a virgin bleach-out application. Starting 1/2" away from the scalp, apply Extra Power bleach +20 volume to regrowth.
Step 3: Once those were lifted to butter yellow, apply the same bleach +20/30 volume combo on scalp. Process to pale yellow.
Step 4: Apply bleach + 20 volume + Olaplex on previous grown out highlights. Process 10 more minutes. Shampoo with Unite Purple shampoo and rinse.
Step 5: Tone using Schwarzkopf Vibrance 9-1 mixing equal parts instead of usual 1:2 for stronger deposit on root for silver grey tone. Lift red panels to level 8 pair orange and apply Igora 8-11 to tone. Apply igora 9-1+10-1+9.5-1 with a little 9.5-29 Pearlessence on the remaining blonde for a silvery blonde tone.
Step 6: Apply a stand alone Olaplex treatment with 3 oz of water to 1/2oz of Olaplex. Process for 10 minutes. Apply #2 and process 15 minutes. Shampoo and condition.
Step 7: Apply Unite 7 Second Leave-In conditioner and oil. Blow dry and iron using Unite Glossing Thermal Protectant.
"This color correction took 5 hours. We knew we would have to work on red panels in more sessions to get past yellow. We re-booked 4 weeks later to color more to a silver grey going into silvery lavender."
SESSION 2:
Step 1: Using Pravana Silver on first 3 " from scalp. Melt into Pearlessence 9.5-29 to dry hair. Process 30 minutes. Rinse.
Step 2: Apply a stand alone Olaplex treatment. Shampoo and condition.
SESSION 3:
Step 1: Bleach roots using Varioplus +20 volume. Lift to pale yellow .
Step 2: Cocktail with bleach +20 volume + clarifying shampoo on faded Pravana silver and Pearlessence lavendar.
Step 3: Once lifted, tone with Vibrance 9-1+9.5-1.
SESSION 4:
Step 1: Apply Varioplus +20 volume. Process to palest yellow.
Step 2: Tone back to original toner of 9-1 vibrance on root and Igora 9-1+10-1+9.5-1+9.5-29 to the rest of the hair. Rinse and condition.
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