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PRECISION CUTTING: 4 Tips From A Master

by Maggie Mulhern | April 28, 2017

Are one length haircuts challenging you?

Enter Andrew Carruthers, Education Director for Sam Villa. The master cutter addresses problems and solutions on a regular basis and here shares the solution to one of the greatest challenges for stylists: how to cut a precision bottom edge. This technique is handy for one-length haircuts and bobs where the perimeter needs to be precise. 

VIDEO: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5EJQlMigW8A 

Says Carruthers, “Many times after cutting a straight line, you blow dry hair and notice inconsistencies or even graduation.  By keeping your fingers straight, being cautious not to flip hair up, cutting below the guideline and using a comb instead fingers, you can cut a precision edge with accuracy."

 Here he shares his tips:

  1. When cutting a nice straight solid edge, it’s important to cut hair as close to its natural fall as possible. Keeping fingers straight to minimize lifting hair up and away from its natural fall will reduce the chance of creating unwanted graduation. 
  2. If the hair being cut is lower than eye level, do not flip hair up. When fingers are flipped up, it bends hair out of its natural position creating graduation instead of a solid line. 
  1. Once a guideline is set, always cut at the bottom edge of the guideline instead of right on it. This ensures that the next section will not be slightly above the previously cut section, which creates graduation…if anything, it will be slightly below the previously cut section.
  2. Select the proper tools. "Try using a Sam Villa Signature Series Short Cutting Comb instead of fingers. A comb tends to create less tension and stretch on the hair allowing it to be cut closer to its natural fall position."
Xavier at work, surrounded by chaos, at Salon Xavier, Sag Harbor, NY

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