Rianna Taylor (@rianimal_ ) of Salon Head Candy, Cherry Hill, New Jersey, loves the challenge of corrections, "and what's best is the reaction of your client who has entrusted you to fix her hair- when she finally sees it and say 'I can't believe this is my hair!!' That makes all of the hard work worth it."
For this new client, Taylor had to first address the 3 inches of natural level 2 hair, a band of permanent color, and a level 10 on the ends. "She wanted to go silver all over but was very open about something different depending on what the situation with the band turned out to be." All together this process took about 4 hours.
Here Taylor shares the details for the makeover:
Step 1: To the band apply Pulp Riot BlondeAF lightener and 20 volume in EmBee Meche sheets to insulate the processing, being very careful not to overlap onto the super light ends. "I chose the Pulp Riot lightener because it works quickly and doesn't swell a ton- her ends were so light already and I didn't want to damage them!"
Step 2: Increase to 30 volume at the front and then start applying to the natural regrowth in the back, working towards the front.
Steps 3: After processing, "her band was still around a level 8/9 but I knew I could blend it out with a shadow root or some dimension if the color molecules didn't break up enough in this visit." Continue applying, and process under a cap for 45 minutes. Rinse, shampoo and towel dry.
Step 4: Tone with Wella Illumina- 9/60, 10/1, 10/69, 8/1, and a drop of 2/0 & Pastel Developer. Apply first to the root and mid shaft over the band. Process for 15 minutes and then apply to the ends and process another 7 minutes. "At this point she was silvery and 'ashed-out' enough, but I wanted another layer to ensure longevity."
Step 5: Using all Pulp Riot on towel dry hair:
Roots & mid shaft- Smoke, Mercury, with a drop of Velvet and Noir
Ends- Mercury with a drop of Powder and Lilac
Step 6: Process under a cap for 20 minutes.